
Two of our readers, Aleksandra “Aleks” Witkowska and Paul Tomaszewski, recently took a break from their Chicago winter and vacationed on Big Island and Maui. We’ll be featuring their trip report in two segments along with our thoughts. First up is the Big Island.
Hilo scores as their favorite town in all Hawaii.
“The Zen gardens off Banyan drive left quite an impression, as did all the interesting mom and pop places that line the streets of Hilo. I discovered this little bakery called “Two Ladies Kitchen” that made THE BEST fresh mochi balls.”
Beat of Hawaii: We like Hilo too and think it’s completely underrated. The problem is that Hilo doesn’t score well in terms of hotel and resort accommodations. But for a day trip from Kona, it can’t be beat. Hilo has the best farmer’s market (Wednesday/Saturday) in the state.
Aleks and Paul Recommend these Favorite Places to Stay:
Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel: “The best hotel experience we’ve ever had.”
Beat of Hawaii: While the hotel is definitely showing its age and could use a refurb, it’s still a gem with a prime beach location and understated Big Island elegance that can’t be beat. A great place to snorkel is at Turtle Cove which fronts the hotel.
Hilo’s Shipman House: “Great place.”
Beat of Hawaii: If you’re interested in Big Island bed and breakfast accommodations, visit the Hawaiian Island B&B Association website. Our favorite Hilo B&B, Waterfalls Inn, recently closed so we’ll check out Shipman House next time.
South Point Driving Report:
“We were able to navigate the dirt roads of South Point with our Vue. This area is rural with mostly cattle farms as well as sheep, goats and horses. The cliffs were littered with fishing line and discarded lures, as well as other garbage left behind by local fishermen. That is unfortunate, as it takes away from the natural beauty and panoramic views.”
Beat of Hawaii: Not only is this the southern most point in the United States, it was probably the first place the Polynesians came ashore and settled nearly 2,000 years ago when they discovered these islands. The holes they used to moor their canoes remain carved in the rocks.
Most visitors make the mistake of assuming that the cliffs with the boat hoists are South Point. The real South Point is past the light beacon at a place where a rock wall trails down to the beach.
Saddle Road and Mauna Kea Report:
“Nicely paved and we were told, just recently straightened. There was still some construction remaining when we visited, but the road was mostly finished.
Saddle Road is not lit out of consideration to the major astronomy observatories at the top of Mauna Kea. Light pollution is taken seriously in Hawaii. All the street lights use a special low-polluting yellow glow light, which confused us at first as it looks a lot like the yellow on a stop light.
We ended up not attempting the summit of Mauna Kea on our own, but instead we went with the Arnott’s Lodge tour. It was significantly cheaper than the Mauna Kea tours out of Waikoloa or Kailua Kona. I am sure this is due in part to the shorter drive distance, but also Arnott’s is no frills. Our guide, Robert, was awesome: friendly, knowledgeable, good sense of humor, clearly enjoyed his job, all-around nice guy.”
Beat of Hawaii: Arnott’s Lodge tour is a great tip. Their prices start at $110 per person compared to $197 at Mauna Kea Summit Adventures. When driving Saddle Road be sure to pack warm clothes (highest elevation is 6,000 feet) and only attempt it on a clear day (fog can make driving hazardous). There are no gas stations on Saddle Road so fill up before starting. On a safety note, it’s best to keep your headlights turned on.
Aleks and Paul Choose their Top Big Island Places:
Hilo, Volcanoes National Park, Mauna Kea, the Kohala Coast, and Waimea.
Beat of Hawaii: We’ll add swimming in the geothermal pool at Ahalanui Park in Puna.
Photos of the cliffs at South Point and Mauna Kea sunset courtesy of Aleks Witkowska and Paul Tomaszewski.