Feb 16 2008
Can Kauai’s Oki Diner Be Saved By Their New Chef?
How bad is Lihue’s Oki Diner? After reading the thumbs down reviews from True Aloha and many Trip Advisor readers, we decided to check it out again, for ourselves.
We’ve been there twice in the past month, and they still have perhaps the best pancakes on the island. Now Chef Dominic Benzon has arrived at the scene. He was previously a chef at Nick’s Fish Market in Waikiki.
Chef Benzon and owner Barbie Oki rolled out their new signature dinner menu this week. During our dinner last night the place was packed with locals and visitors checking out the new menu.
There are 6 very reasonably priced signature dishes featured from $10.95 to $15.95. We tried the Bouillabaisse Mediterranean Seafood Stew, Shrimp Scampi over Linguine and Ahi with Butter Garlic Signature Sauce. The dinners all show potential but need work.
Bouillabaisse: B rating. More fresh seafood flavor is needed and fresh herbs. There were too many juliennne carrots for our taste.
Ahi: B- rating. Our fish was cooked medium rare which is correct. It was pan fried and may have been frozen. The accompanying red potatoes and shitake mushrooms were not cooked adequately and barely edible. The garlic was over the top. I found the sauce nicely flavored but too greasy.
Shrimp Scampi: C rating. It needed some of the garlic from the Ahi dish and was without flavor.
A choice of tossed salad or macaroni is included. The salad was very watery with only lettuce and 1000 island dressing. The rolls that accompanied the dinner were a throwaway. These need to be updated.
Service was prompt and friendly. The only complaint is that one dinner arrived 5 minutes after the other two.
For the signature dishes, upgraded napkins and table settings would be better. This is still a diner and the regular menu is always featured with the new signature dishes.
Summary: Good potential and reasonable prices. Given that Kauai restaurants like Roy’s and the Beach House feature equally unsophisticated and poorly prepared dinners, Oki Diner and their new chef deserve a chance.
Details: Oki Diner is located at 4479 Rice Street (near the highway) in Lihue. Signature dishes are served beginning at 5:30pm. Restaurant hours are 6am to 4am on Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. On Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday they close at midnight.
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