BEAT OF HAWAII AND BEYOND

Coffee is serious business to us. We’re home roasters with access to hundreds of wild coffee trees, and enjoy visiting plantations while island hopping. Recently, the manager of Molokai’s Coffees of Hawaii, Maria Holmes, invited us for a tour and coffee tasting. How could we refuse?

Before we go any further let me just say that their Muleskinner brand was excellent. During taste testing we scored it highest overall. I love a strong coffee without the taste of rancid oils. Muleskinner scored well in freshness and buzz factor. It’s a great and distinguished morning cup, and features a medium-body, with complex clear flavors and aromas.

We visited the plantation several times during our stay on Molokai. There’s a small cafe and I recommend you try a Mocha Mama (photo below) after hiking Kalaupapa.  They are en route. On weekends the plantation hosts a jazz night with food. During the week there are Morning Espresso Tours and a Mule Drawn Wagon Tour (call for times and availability).

Maria was kind enough to give us a personal tour of their 500 acre plantation. Spending time with Maria we could sense her dedication to the land and to ensuring only the best coffee is produced. I was impressed that they use many environmentally friendly practices like composting, water recycling, and complete sun drying.

Facebook aficionados can join the Coffees of Hawaii fan page to stay on top of deals and what’s happening at the plantation. I noticed they currently have a 10 percent discount for on-line orders and free Fed-Ex shipping with a purchase of $100 or more.

I also suggest visiting the Coffees of Hawaii website which offers many features including videos and even Hawaii proverbs. Better yet, plan a trip to Molokai on your next Hawaii vacation and visit the plantation in person.

Comments.

Subscribe to our email updates.

This red door marks the hottest night spot on Molokai. It rises to the occasion with yeast. Take some dough with you and get some in return. The nightly Hot Bread Run is where locals and visitors intersect starting at 9:30pm (closed Monday).

Your destination is Kanemitsu’s Bakery on the main drag in Kaunakakai. The storefront is closed but the bakery in back is running full speed. Park your car in front and venture down the dim lit alley to the right. Follow your nose to the second alley and you’ve arrived at the Hot Bread Run.

Every so often the red door opens and bread gets handed over. This bread is like a party-size donut with your choice of filling. The night we were there the menu offered Strawberry, Blueberry, Cream Cheese, Cinnamon and Butter. Prices start at $4.75 for plain.

Don’t forget to visit Kaunakakai during the day for shopping.

We found a large selection of t-shirts reasonably priced at Molokai Fish and Dive. I take an XXL and had many shirts to choose from. Outpost Natural Foods is a good stop for healthy eaters. Their fresh produce offers some good buys. For groceries we stopped at Friendly’s. You many want to go off peak hours. We were there close to 5pm and it felt like the whole island community had joined us. A fun bookstore with new and used books is Kalele Bookstore and Diving Expressions. Owner Teri Waros offered coffee and a talk story session. Her enthusiasm is contagious. Bamboo Pantry offered many local products and there is also a Co-Op art gallery in town. On Saturday mornings be sure to visit the Farmer’s Market across from the library.

Comments.

Hau’oli Makahiki Hou

Best wishes for a happy and healthy New Year.

Mahalo Nui Loa for supporting Beat of Hawaii’s not-for-profit efforts to encourage Hawaii tourism in 2009!

Aloha,

Rob and Jeff

Image:  Nativity scene by Hawaii artist and friend Liedeke Bulder and the children of Lihue Lutheran Church.

In case you missed the annual Lights on Rice Christmas parade on Kauai, here’s a short video I took to put you in our island style holiday mood.

This year’s parade took place on December 4, and as always was one of the best-attended events on Kauai.  It runs the length of Rice Street and featured nearly 60 floats and other entrants.

Lights on Rice brings both locals and visitors together to enjoy the start of the holidays featuring music, parade, craft fair (sponsored by the Kauai Museum) and food vendors.

If you missed the parade but plan to be on Kauai this month, be sure to check out the Festival of Lights. It’s open Friday through Sunday evenings from 6-8 pm., through December 24.

This year’s Festival of Lights acknowledges the passing of friend and illustrious folk artist Auntie Josie, soon after we interviewed her last Christmas.

If you’ve been to either of these two holiday celebrations on Kauai, I’d appreciate your comments.

One of the most beautiful places in Hawaii is also the site of much hardship and enforced imprisonment. Those with Hansen’s Disease were called “lepers” and sent to live here, on Molokai’s Kalaupapa Peninsula, against their will.  They represented all ages, ethnicity and economic status.

For $50 I was taken on a tour of the settlement in an old school bus following my hike down the Pali Trail. It gave me a sense of what forced quarantine might be like. My freedom to explore on my own was taken away. Most buildings were off limits to me including the U.S. Post Office. I was truly an outsider.

There are currently 19 patients left and they are elderly. The rest of the 100 people who live here are employed by the Park Service and State of Hawaii.

What happens to Kalaupapa when the last patient dies is unclear. No longer under quarantine they choose to live here because this has always been their home.

The 4 hour tour begins in Kalaupapa which became the second settlement starting in 1890.

It was warmer and drier than the first settlement at Kalawao which began in 1866.  Kalawao is where Father Damien lived and worked. We were taken there for the last hour of the tour and to enjoy our lunch.

Native Hawaiians lived here for 900 years before the first Hansen’s patients arrived.

As I looked at the world’s highest sea cliffs to my right I gazed out to the surf and the two islands in the distance where the first ships dropped anchor. Patients were taken to shore in small boats to the beach below. Those who refused were pushed off the ship into the water and made to swim.

I tried to imagine their voices from back then and felt honored to walk in their footsteps and Saint Damien’s. We toured the church he built and visited his grave site before returning to the starting point of the tour. Father Damien’s remains were returned to Belgium in the 1930’s and the relic of his right hand is now buried here.

As I began the steep trail back topside, I left wanting to return and learn more.

Details:

Kalaupapa is a national historical park but entry is restricted.

Visitors Policy: You must be at least 16 years of age and be invited by a resident or have an advanced reservation with Damien Tours.

Damien Tour Reservations: Hikers must reserve in advance by calling (808) 567-6171 between 7am and 9am (HST). You can leave a detailed message if no one is around. Since tours fill quickly it’s best to reserve early. There are no tours on Sunday. The daily tour starts at 10:00 a.m.

If you opt for the mule ride or fly in on an organized tour, there is no additional fee or reservation needed for Damien Tours.

Cost: Hikers pay $50 per person on arrival by cash, personal check or traveler’s check. No credit cards accepted. Lunch is not included.

Our thanks to Hotel Molokai for providing accommodations.

There are two hikes I’ll never forget. The first happened 30 years ago when I hiked the Grand Canyon. My second memorable hike occurred last week when I walked the 102 year old Pali trail to Kalaupapa.

Kalaupapa is a spiritual place of great beauty and a reminder of tremendous suffering.  It’s where Saint Damien lived with and cared for the Hansen’s Disease patients.

The trail is challenging, slippery, muddy, with a 1700 foot elevation drop.

At one point I wanted to turn back. I was determined to keep going.  In addition to our supplies we were bringing fresh produce to Father Felix who lives at Kalaupapa.

Each step down was carefully placed to avoid slipping.

The hike to the bottom took 2 hours and 15 minutes; much longer than I had expected.  When we heard the sound of the surf and looked up the steep cliff from where we started, it was a feeling of exhilaration knowing we had arrived.

Going back topside after the tour was much easier psychologically without the chance of slipping, but still strenuous.

We felt the hike for a few days after.  In spite of the discomfort, it was worth the experience and I recommend to all in good condition.

My next post will talk about the tour of Kalaupapa organized by Damien Tours.

Rob’s hiking notes for those considering this adventure.

Training Routine: It’s important to be in good aerobic condition for this hike. Three weeks before going we ramped up our walks looking for streets with steep inclines and used the stair master at the gym.

Packing Supplies for 2: Water (2 liter bottles) which can be refilled before the trip back topside, 4 sandwiches (we saved one each for the hike up and it helped restore energy), protein bars and nut snacks from Outpost Natural Foods in Kaunakakai plus an extra T-shirt to change into at the bottom for the return hike.  Be sure to check the conditions of your shoes.  Jeff’s sneaker sole was sucked off by the mud, making the hike up more challenging. We also packed hats and sunscreen.

If I go again I’d bring: Swimsuit for the beach at the end of the trail and hiking poles.

Start your hike early: We began at 7:00 a.m. which put us ahead of the mules and gave us the time needed to hike without feeling rushed.  You must arrive by 10:00 a.m. for the tour.  We left Kalaupapa at 2pm and arrived topside at 4:30 p.m.

Trail Markers: There are 26 switchbacks and each one is marked.  The further down you go the shorter the distance is between numbers.  Once you’re at the bottom of the trail you’ll walk 20 minutes along the shore to where the tour begins.

What to Expect: 1700 foot elevation change each way, a steep and muddy trail, lots of steps, and 6 miles round trip. Most of the trail is shaded.

Location of Trailhead:  From Kaunakakai, take 460 west, then turn right at Highway 470. The trail entrance is 15 minutes at the top of the highway, past the mule stables, on the right at a metal gate with a sign warning not to enter without a permit.

Visitor Qualifications: You must be at least 16 years of age and meet one of the following: a) invited by a resident, b) have a pre-arranged tour at bottom with Damien Tours, or c) be on a mule trip.

Alternatives to hiking: Take the Mule Ride for $175 or fly-in on Pacific Wings.  Another option is to drive past the trail head to the end of the road where there’s an overlook of the Kalaupapa settlement.

(In 1980 our State Legislature again decrees “Hansen’s Disease” rather than “leprosy” to be the official terminology in Hawaii).

Our thanks to Hotel Molokai for providing accommodations.

When you drive by the dilapidated Coco Palms resort on Kauai, it’s hard to imagine the magic and style of this once grand property.

There’s a story behind its chain link fence and buildings that have given way to termites and rot.  And that story is steeped in Hawaiian history and some of the biggest names of the 1950’s and 1960’s, who stayed here before jet service began to the islands.

There’s a dark side to its history too which has kept the Coco Palms closed since Hurricane Iniki struck in 1992.

That story is rooted in insurance fraud and now the economy.  The sad thing is that Hurricane Iniki only damaged the lobby of the Coco Palms.  It could have, and should have, reopened.

With its future uncertain, I wanted to see Coco Palms again.

This past weekend I was allowed behind it gates.  As I walked past the largest coconut grove in the islands, its eerie silence spoke of long ago.

This was the ancestral home of Kauai Ali’i (royalty).  As a resort it became one of the most prominent in the islands before and after statehood under the careful watch of hotelier Grace Guslander.

As I walked in the footsteps of its history, I wanted to go back in time.

Mitzi Gaynor remembers Coco Palms quite well.  She stayed in one the bungalows during filming of  South Pacific.  On her recent trip to Kauai, her first in 50 years, she lamented the condition of the resort and the loss it represents to Hawaii.

Another person with memories of Coco Palms is Larry Rivera.  Now 77 years young he has become the unofficial caretaker of the resort.

Larry started as a busboy at Coco Palms 57 years ago and was on hand to sing and talk to us. When you hear him speak and look in his eyes, you see in him the magic of a time long passed.  Larry doesn’t see an empty resort but a place that is still alive.  He’s passionate about the Coco Palms and wants the property opened again.

The pictures I took tell the story of its current condition.

Overgrown elephant grass hides the once sought after bungalows, weeds cover markers of famous people who planted trees here (like Jackie Kennedy Onassis), and the lounge where Elvis sang is empty.

If you ever stayed at Coco Palms, please comment with your stories and memories.

How you can tour the Coco Palms:

1.  Hawaii Movie Tours includes a visit to the resort on their 6 hour itinerary which includes lunch.  Prices start at $89.  For information call 808-822-1192.

2.  Schedule a Blue Hawaii wedding or renewal ceremony on the lagoon: Contact Larry Rivera at LarryRivera@hawaiian.net

Read the story of the Coco Palms:

Author David Penhallow has written, The Story of the Coco Palms Resort: The Grace Buscher Guslander Years 1953-1985.  It’s the definitive history of the resort and includes a large selection of photographs from the period.  Available at Amazon for $29.95 with free shipping.

Find Coco Palms on the Internet:

Coco-Palms, features a selection of photos and information.

Friends of Coco Palms, is a group of supporters who want to see the property open again.

Love in the Ruins, a recent article from the Wall Street Journal about Coco Palms Resort, Larry Rivera and his Blue Hawaii weddings.

ebay has 57 collectible items from the resort when I checked today.  Enter “Coco Palms Resort” in their search box to find them.

Photo Descriptions (clockwise from top right): (1) Lobby staircase, (2) location of Mai Tai reception for return guests hosted by Grace Guslander, (3) Lobby interior, and (4) Lagoon where Elvis Presley sang Blue Hawaii.

Poipu’s recently opened Galerie 103 redefines the Hawaii art scene.  Located at the new Kukui’ula Village, its large space reflects both Kauai’s earthiness and sophistication.

The art takes center stage here against an industrial backdrop that features a soothing color palette and a fine museum feel.

Galerie 103 features art within everyone’s budget.

Its 2400 square foot space includes a small annex dedicated to modern and contemporary works on paper, art objects, fiber art and art books, while the main gallery features significant works of fine art.

A modern gallery where art meets issues.

“The art at Galerie 103 knows no boundaries, thereby challenging misconceptions about regionalism and ethnic origin,” according to owner, Bruna Stude.  Featuring artists not only from Hawaii but throughout the world, Galerie 103 is for the adventurous audience.

Exhibitions coming to Galerie 103 through March 2010

“Roadtrip” by Wayne Zebzda, through November 8, 2009

Exhibited at The Contemporary Museum Honolulu Biennial 2008, “Roadtrip” has just returned from a solo show at The Maui Arts & Cultural Center (2009).

“Generations” by Peter Bodnar (age 80), Tom Lieber (60), and Leaf Lieber (10), from October 10 to December 8, 2009

Peter Bodnar, the “patriarch” of this group, has been creating and teaching art for over 60 years. Over the past 35 years, Bodnar’s protégé Tom Lieber has become one of Hawaii’s most important contemporary artists, with an international reputation. Leaf Lieber represents the third generation of this “art family” and is heir to their creative tradition.

“An Affair in the Islands” from December 15 to February 1, 2010

A group exhibit inspired by H.C. Westermann. Opening reception will be held on December 15 from 6 – 8 p.m.

“A-HA” from February 6 to March 22, 2010

Though it refers to Art by Hawaiian Artists, ” A – HA ” actually references the surprise and revelation that will be experienced when viewers discover this recent work by contemporary Hawaiian artists. The exhibit title also predicts the sense of triumph felt by art-lovers and island-lovers alike, when confronted with art works that are issue-oriented and conceptual or idea-based, as well as respectful of the influences of the powerful beauty of Hawaii.

Galerie 103 owner Bruna Stude is an artist and acclaimed photographer of the sea.

Originally from Croatia, Bruna has made Kauai her home for the past 7 years.  Her work has been featured at The Contemporary Museum in Honolulu and in many books and publications including National Geographic.

Details:  Galerie 103 is open Tuesday-Saturday from 11am to 7pm.  Sunday and Monday hours are by appointment.  Please telephone 808-742-0103.

Location: Kukui’ula Village at 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka, Poipu Beach, Kauai

Twitter: Galerie103

Pictured in Photo:  Galerie 103 owner, Bruna Stude, with mascot and loyal friend, Brolie; the most sophisticated canine on Kauai.  He’s available to meet you too.

Until this weekend, actress, singer and dancer Mitzi Gaynor had only been on Kauai once before.  That visit was over 50 years ago when she was on-island to film South Pacific.

Still youthful at 76. “Don’t believe reports that I’m 78,” Mitzi said. She walked on stage today at the Kauai Marriott, looking spectacular in a Bob Mackie pantsuit, ready to celebrate the Golden Anniversary of the movie.

During a 90 minute “preview” performance with film clips shown on two large screens, Mitzi delighted the audience with stories of Hollywood and the people she’s worked with.

Giving terrific impersonations of Marilyn Monroe, Betty Grable, Ethel Merman and Noel Coward, to name drop a few, Mitzi showed great aplomb at working the audience and sharing movie history.

She also launched into a hilarious description of 1950’s clothes while discussing her preparations to meet the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.  “You could floss your teeth with the tips of those high heel shoes.”

I still want to know why it took Mitzi 50 years to return to Kauai.  When asked by an audience member, Mitzi welled up saying she thought it would be too hard to relive those memories but now she’s glad she did.

Mitzi on the Coco Palms Hotel. She lamented the condition of the legendary property, where she stayed during filming of South Pacific, and urged that it be restored.  “It’s part of your island history.  All of the early production companies stayed there.  It was THE place on Kauai.”

I was touched when Mitzi said she remembers (and still finds) Kauai as a place where people give and not take away from one another.

Ever vogue South Pacific.  Mitzi thinks the popularity of South Pacific is due to the terrific music and to the fact that many people can still relate to the time period and World War II.

She got the part in South Pacific with some help from Frank Sinatra.  Mitzi was filming a scene with him and the producers did not want to release her for the South Pacific audition.  Frank stepped in and asked that scene be filmed around Mitzi to she could have the day off.

Mitzi recalled shooting, “I’m going to wash that man right out of my hair,” and having to stop when the shampoo created an eye irritation.  She remembered seeing No Tears baby shampoo at Lihue General Store and someone drove 2 hours each way for a bottle.  It saved the shoot, according to Mitzi.

Howard Hughes’ girlfriend.  Early in the program Mitzi recalled her romance with Howard Hughes saying the other girlfriends are all dead.  Mitzi is still here and shows no signs of letting up.

Mitzi’s going back to work.  Right now she’s rehearsing for a new show in 2010 that will add dance and singing to her program.  It’s called, “Razzle Dazzle, My Life Behind the Sequins.”

As I walked along the beach after the performance, I thought about all the changes that have happened on Kauai since South Pacific was filmed, and delighted in the fact I could connect with that time gone by.

The Contemporary Museum in Honolulu brings the outdoor world inside with its current exhibit by Japanese artist Yoshihiro Suda; on view through October 18 at TCM’s Makiki location.

This is far from the normal gallery experience of viewing art on walls.

Instead you’ll find delicately carved plants and flowers that are so real you’ll want to reach down and pick them.  Don’t. They are fragile pieces made from magnolia wood and hand painted with traditional Japanese pigments.  A few works have already been stepped on and broken.

Sudas’ art is shown at all levels from the floor up.

Some galleries require that you go searching for his art which can be found below a window or behind a wall.  At first you’ll wonder where the art is located as you stare at empty walls.  Just stop and take time to look around you.

When you find his weed, leaf or flower, enjoy the experience of discovery and appreciation for things in this world we take for granted.

There’s more than art here; explore beautiful gardens throughout the 3.5 acre estate.

You’re on the slopes of Mount Tantalus with great views of Honolulu and Diamond Head.  On my next visit I plan to purchase a picnic lunch from the café and sit under my favorite tree.

The 70 year-old Monkey Pod is currently an art exhibit too.

San Francisco artist, Micheal Arcega, has installed an exhibit on the tree branches called, “Overlook.”  It’s tethered to the ground with different colored ropes and runs through October 25.

TCM always stretches my imagination and appreciation for art.

It’s Hawaii’s only museum dedicated to contemporary art and deserves to be on your sightseeing itinerary.

Visitor Guide

Admission is $8 for adults; $6 for seniors and students 13 and over.

Free Admission the third Thursday of every month, Young Adults 20-29 (through September 30), Military with ID and children under 12.

Location, Google map and Directions: 2411 Makiki Heights Drive.  From Ala Moana Blvd, turn on Piikoi.  After driving under the H-1 freeway, take a right on Mott-Smith Drive and a left on Makiki Heights Drive.  It’s a 10 minute drive from Ala Moana Shopping Center.  Bus #15 will take you there too.

Guided tours: Daily at 1:30 p.m., led by docents.

Museum Hours: Tues-Sat 10am to 4pm; Sunday 12-4 (Closed Monday).

Café Hours: Tues-Sat 11:30 to 2:30 and Sunday from noon to 2:30.

Dr. Beach’s 2009 Top U.S. beach pick is Kauai’s renowned Hanalei Bay.

The selection of Hanalei Bay certainly comes as no surprise to us here at Beat of Hawaii, or to our readers.  This beautiful crescent-shaped jewel has been our own No. 1 beach year after year.  You’ll typically find me in the water there at least twice a week during summer for long-distance swimming.

Dr. Beach bases his selection on 60 criteria including water, sand, environmental quality, safety, services, and management.

Water:

Hanalei runs from mammoth waves in winter to complete tranquility in summer.  It is warm, clean and lush.  In the past few weeks the water clarity has been the best I can ever recall, such that you can literally look around and see a vast distance in nature’s own swimming pool.

Sand:

The broad, soft, blond-sand beach stretches two miles and with its gentle slope into the water is perfect for long walks.

Scenery:

Hanalei Bay is quintessential Hawaii, pure and simple.  The backdrop is of majestic green mountains repleat with many waterfalls, and in the background, iconic Bali Hai also known as Makana.

Amenities:

• Lifeguards
• Showers and bathrooms (which are in need of renovation)
• Picnic facilities with barbeques

If you’re at Hanalei Beach this summer and see me, be sure to give a “shout out.”

The handwriting was on the wall when we toured the Hawaii Maritime Center in April.  Faced with a bad economy and low visitor traffic, the museum was closing its doors for the last time at the beginning of May.

On our visit there was a somber mood with the final day looming.  We asked at the Information Desk if the closure was temporary as the officials wanted us to believe.  The look on the person’s face spoke to a more terminal fate for the museum.

We walked around the displays that celebrate the history of Hawaii from the perspective of the sea, and then climbed to the top of the building for sweeping views of the city and harbor.

Below us (picture at top right) was docked the Falls of Clyde which is the only four-masted, full-rigged ship left in the world.  Built in 1878 the ship first sailed into Honolulu in 1898 and carried sugar between Hilo and San Francisco.  A national historic landmark, its future may have a different ending than the Hawaii Maritime Center.

In 2008, ownership was transferred from the Bishop Museum to the Friends of Falls of Clyde.  With your support this grand dame of the sea will have a new lease on life.