Next month will mark a year since the unfathomable, devastating Lahaina fire. Maui continues to recover, and the tourism industry there wants to welcome visitors. Here’s a look at what we just experienced on Maui and what you can expect to find when visiting different parts of the island, focusing on the distinctions between West Maui and South Maui.
On arrival at Kahului Airport, we immediately noticed visitor traffic was down—actually, way down, given that it was the week ending with the July 4 holiday, which has traditionally been one of the busiest of the year throughout Hawaii. There were many gates without flights and empty stores. The new car rental facility is very attractive, and taking the new tram to get there is a fun way to begin a vacation. However, we noticed that the facility also felt largely empty.
Hotel costs have continued to skyrocket. We have hesitated to go because of this, even when using a Kamaaina rate. Ultimately, we stayed at someplace where we’d never stayed before, and have a separate review pending. Here’s an example of what many of you are saying about the costs you’re seeing:
“We’ll be heading to Maui next week for our first Hawaii visit in five years. Maui has always been my happy place (will be our sixth visit) but given all the high costs and hostility to tourists, I hope this won’t be our last trip. There are so many places to go where you can feel welcome. No aloha, then no more us. But I’m rooting for Maui.”
Recent comment from a Beat of Hawaii reader.
West Maui Recovery.
West Maui, including areas like Kaanapali, Napili, and Kapalua, is accessible to visitors, and the tourism sector, in particular, is actively welcoming the visitors needed to support the local economy. Businesses are open and need economic revival following a terrible year. Tourism is the only hope for its financial recovery.
West Maui visitor activities.
Despite the closure of Lahaina, there are a plethora of activities to enjoy in West Maui:
Snorkeling and beach activities are in full swing this summer. The clear waters of Honolua Bay and Kapalua and the scenic beaches along Kaanapali still offer excellent opportunities for snorkeling and sunbathing. We found some beaches crowded right before July 4, especially at Kapalua.
Sensitivity and a different welcome (vibe) on West Maui.
In the decades we have visited Maui, this visit was totally unique. Visitors can’t help but be aware of what transpired, whether from driving the new Lahaina bypass road with all of the privacy screens and traffic barriers or simply the vibe that, to our perception, has changed dramatically. And how could it not have changed given what happened? The road that now goes around Lahaina took some getting used to just due to the still vivid shock about the situation, and because it’s so different and not the same traffic pattern we’ve always known.
“You won’t be able to enter Lahaina’s restricted burn zone without a permit, but from the road, you can see progress – 317 properties have been cleared in Lahaina, and over 81 homes have been given the okay to begin rebuilding.”
While West Maui officially wants and financially needs visitors, the atmosphere can feel different. The closer you are to Lahaina, the more palpable the impact of the fire remains in our experience. Visitors may sense a somber or less welcoming mood, and the recovery efforts are visibly ongoing. However, the further you travel from Lahaina, such as up to Kapalua Bay, the less apparent the fire’s aftermath becomes. Here, the environment feels more like the Maui visitors will remember, offering a semblance of normalcy and peace.
“Visitors to West Maui should approach their trip with some added sensitivity, acknowledging the recent hardships faced by residents there. We personally know three families who suffered tremendous losses and were fortunate to survive the fire. But their lives remain forever changed.”
Beat of Hawaii Editors
South Maui and Wailea: luxury and leisure unchanged.
Unlike West Maui, South Maui and Wailea were largely unaffected by the fires and have continued to offer a serene and, in many cases, luxurious experience for visitors. This area is known for its upscale resorts, fabulous beaches, and world-class amenities, which are essentially the same experience we and other visitors have had for decades.
South Maui activities and attractions.
Perennial favorites like Wailea Beach, Polo Beach, and Ulua Beach remain perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and relaxing by the ocean. We enjoyed them as much or more than ever before this week. Beaches were at the usual degree of crowdedness for this time of year.
Divisive comments on our visit to Maui’s Wailea Beach Path are telltale.
“Thanks for visiting Maui. I usually love what you write about our islands but this time I really don’t. I live on Maui and walk that path (or try to) often, but the truth is there are so many people on it that it is not a fun or relaxing experience…I am sorry that you have pointed it out as a must-do on Maui.”
Reader Comment from Beat of Hawaii.
That was followed by multiple comments heading in the exact opposite direction:
“I Love this path and walk it almost every day. I’ve never had an unpleasant moment. It’s rarely crowded when I go, and I enjoy watching the joy on the tourists’ faces as they marvel at the beauty of the beaches, the grounds of the resorts filled with flowers, the gentle breezes, and the sunsets.”
“Definitely one of my happy places on the island. Don’t listen to the Debbie Downer curmudgeons, and also know that they exist and are there to stir negativity everywhere, not just on our islands.”
“Once again we are made to feel unwelcome be a resident of Hawaii. Very sad. The Aloha spirit is no longer what it once was. We have decided not to travel to the islands again due to this unwelcoming attitude. There are many other beautiful places to go in the world. Perhaps if Hawaiians were treated this way when they travel, they would understand. Severe case of NIMBY happening in the islands!”
“My husband and I love this Wailea walk! We do it every year and have lunch at the same restaurant and order the same food! It’s a tradition for probably 20 years now. Yes it can be crowded on the path but that’s true for so many beautiful walks and trails in Hawaii and other places. You just have to adjust your mindset! Thanks for posting about it!
Conclusion on what visitors can expect now on Maui.
Maui continues offering visitors diverse experiences nearly a year after the Lahaina fire. While West Maui focuses on recovery and officially welcomes tourists to aid in economic revival, South Maui and Wailea are the most unaffected areas and continue to provide less-changed visitor experiences on Maui.
Many hotels have partnered with volunteer organizations to allow guests a chance to donate a few hours of their stay to help Maui. An example is the Hawaii Land Trust.
Visiting Maui and supporting local businesses is another way for tourists to play a significant role in the island’s ongoing recovery while enjoying all of the island’s unique beauty and culture that have long been Maui’s draw.
We welcome your input on visiting Maui.
No one’s going to put on a show for you unless you’re going to a luau.
It’s not like you’ll be going to a restaurant and the starving, huddled masses will be outside the door.
Go.
We were in Maui in June and July. Yes, there are problems on the island as there are all on all the islands. But you’re staying away will solve none of them.
Your presence and those of others, though, could help. The more people who go to restaurants, go on snorkeling trips and visit other sites, the more jobs that will be available, the more tips that can be earned.
Throughout 10 days there we experienced nothing less than the full aloha treatment that makes Hawaii a magical place. Even in Lahaina.