Next month will mark a year since the unfathomable, devastating Lahaina fire. Maui continues to recover, and the tourism industry there wants to welcome visitors. Here’s a look at what we just experienced on Maui and what you can expect to find when visiting different parts of the island, focusing on the distinctions between West Maui and South Maui.
On arrival at Kahului Airport, we immediately noticed visitor traffic was down—actually, way down, given that it was the week ending with the July 4 holiday, which has traditionally been one of the busiest of the year throughout Hawaii. There were many gates without flights and empty stores. The new car rental facility is very attractive, and taking the new tram to get there is a fun way to begin a vacation. However, we noticed that the facility also felt largely empty.
Hotel costs have continued to skyrocket. We have hesitated to go because of this, even when using a Kamaaina rate. Ultimately, we stayed at someplace where we’d never stayed before, and have a separate review pending. Here’s an example of what many of you are saying about the costs you’re seeing:
“We’ll be heading to Maui next week for our first Hawaii visit in five years. Maui has always been my happy place (will be our sixth visit) but given all the high costs and hostility to tourists, I hope this won’t be our last trip. There are so many places to go where you can feel welcome. No aloha, then no more us. But I’m rooting for Maui.”
Recent comment from a Beat of Hawaii reader.
West Maui Recovery.
West Maui, including areas like Kaanapali, Napili, and Kapalua, is accessible to visitors, and the tourism sector, in particular, is actively welcoming the visitors needed to support the local economy. Businesses are open and need economic revival following a terrible year. Tourism is the only hope for its financial recovery.
West Maui visitor activities.
Despite the closure of Lahaina, there are a plethora of activities to enjoy in West Maui:
Snorkeling and beach activities are in full swing this summer. The clear waters of Honolua Bay and Kapalua and the scenic beaches along Kaanapali still offer excellent opportunities for snorkeling and sunbathing. We found some beaches crowded right before July 4, especially at Kapalua.
Sensitivity and a different welcome (vibe) on West Maui.
In the decades we have visited Maui, this visit was totally unique. Visitors can’t help but be aware of what transpired, whether from driving the new Lahaina bypass road with all of the privacy screens and traffic barriers or simply the vibe that, to our perception, has changed dramatically. And how could it not have changed given what happened? The road that now goes around Lahaina took some getting used to just due to the still vivid shock about the situation, and because it’s so different and not the same traffic pattern we’ve always known.
“You won’t be able to enter Lahaina’s restricted burn zone without a permit, but from the road, you can see progress – 317 properties have been cleared in Lahaina, and over 81 homes have been given the okay to begin rebuilding.”
While West Maui officially wants and financially needs visitors, the atmosphere can feel different. The closer you are to Lahaina, the more palpable the impact of the fire remains in our experience. Visitors may sense a somber or less welcoming mood, and the recovery efforts are visibly ongoing. However, the further you travel from Lahaina, such as up to Kapalua Bay, the less apparent the fire’s aftermath becomes. Here, the environment feels more like the Maui visitors will remember, offering a semblance of normalcy and peace.
“Visitors to West Maui should approach their trip with some added sensitivity, acknowledging the recent hardships faced by residents there. We personally know three families who suffered tremendous losses and were fortunate to survive the fire. But their lives remain forever changed.”
Beat of Hawaii Editors
South Maui and Wailea: luxury and leisure unchanged.
Unlike West Maui, South Maui and Wailea were largely unaffected by the fires and have continued to offer a serene and, in many cases, luxurious experience for visitors. This area is known for its upscale resorts, fabulous beaches, and world-class amenities, which are essentially the same experience we and other visitors have had for decades.
South Maui activities and attractions.
Perennial favorites like Wailea Beach, Polo Beach, and Ulua Beach remain perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and relaxing by the ocean. We enjoyed them as much or more than ever before this week. Beaches were at the usual degree of crowdedness for this time of year.
Divisive comments on our visit to Maui’s Wailea Beach Path are telltale.
“Thanks for visiting Maui. I usually love what you write about our islands but this time I really don’t. I live on Maui and walk that path (or try to) often, but the truth is there are so many people on it that it is not a fun or relaxing experience…I am sorry that you have pointed it out as a must-do on Maui.”
Reader Comment from Beat of Hawaii.
That was followed by multiple comments heading in the exact opposite direction:
“I Love this path and walk it almost every day. I’ve never had an unpleasant moment. It’s rarely crowded when I go, and I enjoy watching the joy on the tourists’ faces as they marvel at the beauty of the beaches, the grounds of the resorts filled with flowers, the gentle breezes, and the sunsets.”
“Definitely one of my happy places on the island. Don’t listen to the Debbie Downer curmudgeons, and also know that they exist and are there to stir negativity everywhere, not just on our islands.”
“Once again we are made to feel unwelcome be a resident of Hawaii. Very sad. The Aloha spirit is no longer what it once was. We have decided not to travel to the islands again due to this unwelcoming attitude. There are many other beautiful places to go in the world. Perhaps if Hawaiians were treated this way when they travel, they would understand. Severe case of NIMBY happening in the islands!”
“My husband and I love this Wailea walk! We do it every year and have lunch at the same restaurant and order the same food! It’s a tradition for probably 20 years now. Yes it can be crowded on the path but that’s true for so many beautiful walks and trails in Hawaii and other places. You just have to adjust your mindset! Thanks for posting about it!
Conclusion on what visitors can expect now on Maui.
Maui continues offering visitors diverse experiences nearly a year after the Lahaina fire. While West Maui focuses on recovery and officially welcomes tourists to aid in economic revival, South Maui and Wailea are the most unaffected areas and continue to provide less-changed visitor experiences on Maui.
Many hotels have partnered with volunteer organizations to allow guests a chance to donate a few hours of their stay to help Maui. An example is the Hawaii Land Trust.
Visiting Maui and supporting local businesses is another way for tourists to play a significant role in the island’s ongoing recovery while enjoying all of the island’s unique beauty and culture that have long been Maui’s draw.
We welcome your input on visiting Maui.
No one’s going to put on a show for you unless you’re going to a luau.
It’s not like you’ll be going to a restaurant and the starving, huddled masses will be outside the door.
Go.
We were in Maui in June and July. Yes, there are problems on the island as there are all on all the islands. But you’re staying away will solve none of them.
Your presence and those of others, though, could help. The more people who go to restaurants, go on snorkeling trips and visit other sites, the more jobs that will be available, the more tips that can be earned.
Throughout 10 days there we experienced nothing less than the full aloha treatment that makes Hawaii a magical place. Even in Lahaina.
I have visited Oahu on several occasions and always had a nice time on the North Shore. At present, I have a trip booked to stay in Wailea, Maui this coming November, but I am genuinely torn on whether or not I should go. On the one hand, I’m reading that visiting/tourism is one of the best ways to support the island. But on the other hand, I’m seeing so many reports that show the negative impact that tourism has, and how so many people are staying/eating/drinking/partying on Hawai’i while the locals continue to suffer. Not just from the fires, but in general.
I honestly don’t know what to do. I want to support the community, and many places (including BOH) say that my tourism dollars will help, but I can’t stop thinking that I’m taking advantage of a beautiful place and essentially using locals to “put on a show” to make me comfortable and happy while they are struggling to make ends meet.
BOH (and readers), please help me with this decision.
I had a friend go to Keawakapu beach, and a local was blocking the parking lot telling tourists to “Go Home!” My friend looked local so he wasn’t affected. Things like this are bad for Maui.
I’ve been to Maui three times and when I booked my Hawaii trip for this year as well as a recent booking for ‘25 I left Maui off the itinerary sadly. The Aloha Spirit, barely hanging on in Oahu, had all but vanished on Maui. The exorbitant room rates have made it so this island is for the very wealthy and the inhospitable locals.
Thanks BOH Guys.
Your report is very much like I would have expected the situation in West Maui to be at this point in time.
I’m still on for next Spring for my visit to Maui.
Regarding the prices on Maui; What is your opinion why prices have sky rocketed since COVID? Hawaii is still in the middle of the Pacific and I don’t think that has changed since COVID, so even though shipping costs may have risen somewhat since then, I don’t think that explains it. The rate of price increases is also not explained entirely by inflation either. Is it simply greed or a combination?
Hi Mike.
Thanks. To us costs don’t appear to be attributable to any single cause. The cost of doing business here has risen greatly in all ways. Hotels have found that less occupancy with higher rates works well too.
Aloha.
I have been visiting Maui since 1973. I have Lived and Breathed Maui and all the islands since 1973. Everyone that knows me knows that if you mention especially Maui, my eyes light up and my world is better. My recent trip in 2024 was different. I did not feel the ame Aloha vibe, driving by all the old spots are different, alot different and we are expected to “tip heavily” everywhere. I will miss Maui, and yet right now, just have no desire to return. And that is a sad fact that no one would ever believe!
It’s time to think of what would heal the soul of people in Hawaii. How about confiscating the golf courses instead of the condos? They are fertile, well-watered, have been taken care of… and literally not usable for much more than the frivolities of the wealthy. Turn them into small gardens, and places local people can grow their food, meet with each other, run a small plot of land, have a place to stay outdoors near the plants they’re growing. It’s time for people to get a chance to be outdoors. To provide for their families spiritually and physically. The golf courses are not cultural. And they’re a waste of land that could be used to heal.
There have been a lot of negative comments here, including my own about the poor stewardship of the Governor and Mayor, and the self-defeating attitude of “Hawaii for Hawaiians.” Instead, I want to focus on a point made in this article about encouraging people to come to West Maui to support the local economy and, in turn, the livelihoods of the people who live and work there.
The Aloha spirit is coming back and so should the tourists.
Our family has wanted to return to Maui since the fires but knew visiting Lahina would not be possible (as it was not possible to visit our favorite California sites due to their wildfires in the recent past). We wanted to return to spend those discretionary monies on or in local places in order to do the best we can for those still trying to recover. However, the the two biggest expenditures (airfare and hotel) are out of our range.
This puzzles us. The loss of rooms/rentals will drive up costs, unfortunate but not completely unexpected, but airfare? If there’s less demand with fewer butts-in-seats coming over that would lower prices due to over supply. Likewise, less occupancy would then lower room rates. Airlines can adjust by reducing flights but how can hotels/rental adjust to higher vacancies?
The airlines have been eliminating fights to Maui. Southwest eliminated my favorite mid day flight from Oakland to Kahului and Hawaiian Airline has fewer flights as well. My last two trips Southwest cost was $99 and $159 from Oakland, booking early pays off. I just tried to book August, the flight over was $159 but coming back the morning flight was ether booked or cancelled and the fee was over $600. I did read that Breeze Air is planning to had Hawaii to their routes.
We spend about 5 months each year in Wailea. Appreciate your reporting and suggestions about Maui. The Lahaina bypass road has been open for about 5 years. Most of the folks on Maui appreciate visitors who enjoy the island and help provide a living for so many of them.
I just returned from Maui a few days ago. I’ve been going there yearly for 50 years. Was it sad to see Lahaina? Yes, of course. Was it heartbreaking to see the memorial on the bypass? Yes. However, I did not feel any negativity from locals. I felt gratitude from shops and stores. Whalers Village in Kaanapali was packed. Fleming Beach was packed. Kapalua General Store was bustling.
I waited in a 2 hour line at a shave ice favorite in Kihei. I believe the tourism was as strong as it could’ve been. Again, no shop workers nor my friends local neighbors were anything but polite. They all need to see you. The water is still gorgeous. The vibe, though somber in the Lahaina area, is not like that anywhere else. The trails near Haleakala were gorgeous. Please visit and spend. Adopt a dog for a day from Maui Humane. Tip big. Spend in local places. Eat in Paia, get coffee from local coffee places (not chains) and help Maui survive.
I couldn’t agree more. This was our experience in June and I already have a trip planned with my girlfriends in October. Our goal: economic stimulus. As a Norther CA foothills native I am far to familiar with the devastation of wildfires and the stuggle it takes to recover. We have planned our trips because of the fires and will continue to support the HI economy.
I have never experience a lack of Aloha on any of my trips to the islands. My mother was born in HI and my grandmother born and raised in Kona. I never vistited until I as in my 30’s. I will forever be thankful for my connection to the islands and will never take them for granted. Sorry Hawaii you are stuck with me and anyone who will accompany me 🙂
We spent 2 months on West Maui this year, leaving on June 1. We stayed on Kaanapali Beach and it was just great. I thought everyone was quite welcoming. Tourism is down, which is bad for the economy in general, but it’s actually great for the tourist. Parking is available, restaurant reservations are easier to get, beaches are clear. I think it’s a great time to visit Maui. And West Maui hotel rates are a lot cheaper than South Maui too.
We go to Maui a couple times a year. And we have definitely noticed a difference in the hospitality of the general public to the visitors from the mainland and other parts of the world. But it’s not to the point that I would not return. I still believe that most of the people there want the tourism because it provides such an excellent source of income for so many different families from all over the world. Because most of the people in Hawaii come from all over the world. Most of them are not Hawaiian completely. They are a mixture of different ethnicities and they come from all over Korea and the Philippines and Portugal and places like that. So we love going to Maui and we will keep going to Maui and we will support our brothers and sisters there.
I just got back Friday from a week staying on Kaanapali beach. This was maybe my 18th trip to Maui in last 40 years. The only differences I saw were smaller crowds (the airport was noticeably less crowded) and lots more catamarans loading from Kaanapali Beach. I guess most that were boarding in Lahaina moved to beach loading. Other than seeing the row of crosses on the bypass and the obvious vacant lots when driving pay Lahaina, I didn’t notice anything different directly relating to the fire. Everyone was just as friendly as any other time. I was worried that restaurants would be crowded due to lower supply, but we never made reservations and never waited more than 15 minutes.
Your photo labeled ‘Slaughterhouse Beach’ appears to be D.T. Fleming Beach instead.
I guess that I have encountered an entirely different group of Maui locals based on the articles and comments here. Perhaps it is due to our small sample size. We have only been visiting West Maui since the late 1970’s. Or perhaps we just do not stay at the right properties. Our list includes Kaanapali Alii, Sheraton Blackrock, Kaanapali Ocean Resort Villas. Perhaps we just do not get out enough. Each year we try to visit Fleetwood’s, Kimo’s, Sea House, Merriman’s, Pizza Hut, Cafe Paradiso, a small Italian restaurant in Lahaina, Whaler Village shops, and the police & fire stations to thank them. In all of our many encounters with locals over the years, I can count our poor experiences on one hand, and most of those are with TSA at OGG. Thank you all for being so critical. We will once again enjoy a wonderfully peaceful time on Maui this fall without you.
With the continued messages of “come to Maui, don’t come, well maybe come we need you” from the governor and Maui mayor no wonder tourism is in a state of flux. Now with the mayors bill coming before council to ban 7000 STRs tourists really have no idea what they should do. Lahaina Strong has also made it pretty clear that they want their island back. Tourism doesn’t feel very important at the moment.
Maui hotels are at least transparent – don’t care if you come and support local operators. If you come to visit, they’ll charge you through your teeth. No regard for local businesses that rely on tourist volume – if the hotel can be 50% full, need 50% staff, but make 100% of what they used to make, that’s their real malama
Unfortunately our local farmers market is closing in September it’s located across from Honokowai Beach park and been my go to for years, Covid really hurt them and fire finished them off, tourists are going elsewhere than West Maui.
Oh noooooo!! Cry more tears!! This is where I shop every November when iam on island. I love their lilikoi cheescake, lilikoi cream cheese and coconut tapioca… I actually pack all of these plus their banana bread in my suitcase when I head back to the mainland. More sad news… darn it!
We were there around same time as you guys. Overall, had a wonderful 10 days and so good to be back.
Agreed, OGG didn’t feel overwhelmed. Ditto for rental car facility. Found it somewhat telling our snorkel cruise from Pacific Whale Expeditions was canceled as we were the only ones signed up. Our tour and lunch at O’O Farms (delicious) had nine people. Could have had 30. And our Trilogy Expeditions sunset cruise had only 18 aboard.
Then again, beaches seemed well-attended. The lines at Ululani shave ice were insane (went to Peace Love instead). Still had to wait at Paia Fish Market. And plenty of people doing Road to Hana. So, hard to know precise state of things.
But hotels so out of whack (why we did Air Bnb in Kihei and Hana). Same for some restaurants ($125 for filet mignon at Wolfgang’s Steak–$50 less than what they charge in NY?). Suggest the food truck villages in Kihel and Kahului for variety, taste and moderate pricing. Not cheap. Nothing is cheap in Maui.
We are currently staying at the Hyatt Residence Club in Kaanapali. The place is very busy with owners and people from the next door Hyatt. We have been met with nothing but Aloha. Speaking with our server at Dukes last night and she described herself as being truly blessed to be here and all the things that go with it. Prices are high at Costco and restaurants. Talked with a woman that we know who lost everything. She and her husband hand out a printed post card that shows their temporary living structure while they await their new home being built – she said they are Great and still living their life here. I know in my heart that there are others that are not as fortunate and do not feel the same I’m sure.