This is for those of you wondering what became of the tourists who love and often return annually to Maui. Following the Lahaina fire, the evacuation of Maui, and especially the negative messaging about returning to Maui, they often chose three islands within 100 miles.
Today, we’ll look at why many of them are on Kauai, the Garden Island. Next up, we’ll visit Oahu and the Big Island, to investigate two more places where Maui tourists are heading.
Recent visitor arrival numbers posted for November 2023 show Maui arrivals are down 30 percent. Meanwhile, the other three islands saw a combined increase of 23 percent. Big Island and Kauai also reported increased visitor spending, which, for example was 32% higher for Kauai over a year ago.
In the meanwhile, Maui searches for where to go next. Whether or not it wants the return of visitors in the numbers it typically receives and how to deal with an increased housing shortage, among other things.
While visitors and spending on Maui are down, it’s fascinating that those seeking the more city-beach experience have Oahu to turn to, while those wanting the more rural, even funky experience of Kauai have that worthwhile alternative.
Visitors want a hassle-free Hawaii vacation and looking to the islands where they believe they’ll most likely find what they seek.
Maui visitors like what they find on Kauai.
With fewer than one-half of the residents of Maui and arguably a much more laid-back attitude, visitors are coming. And it has been very busy on Kauai as a result. It will be a while until we have holidays numbers, but we have never seen popular tourist hangouts as busy as this past few weeks.
Compared to Maui of course, Kauai has fewer golf courses, shopping centers, excellent dining, big resorts, and other tourist amenities. But the island makes up for it with spectacular beaches, a remote and natural environment ideal for exploration, fewer visitors, and what they hope will be fewer crowds.
Gridlock traffic on Kauai.
The Garden Island doesn’t have the infrastructure to support more tourism, so it is not surprising that we often find ourselves in very long traffic jams on our narrow two-lane highways. And that’s assuming there’s no accident or other problem like tree triming that can frequently slow or close the highway entirely, at times with nothing to do but park and get to know your highway neighbors.
Popular Kauai tourist locations at capacity.
Whether it is the parking lot at Poipu Beach or Hanalei Beach Park, the resurgence of visitors can be seen at all the most iconic Kauai destination spots. At Kokee State Park, we witnessed an astonishing number of tourists over the holidays. Parking at the Waipoo Falls trailhead was unlike anything we’ve been before. It’s an easy hike and unquestionably one of the most popular on the island.
Oprah helped drive Maui visitors to Kauai.
While Oprah has been one of Maui’s largest and most outspoken landowners over the past two decades, the “Queen of Maui,” Oprah, came to Kauai last year. She fell in love with what she and her friend Gayle King found and shared it with the world. And the world watched and listened.
It is really something special — the best hiking in the country! — Oprah.
So, with hiking Kauai decreed as one of Oprah’s new passions, is it any wonder that the hiking trails on Kauai are virtually overflowing with visitors? Keep in mind that when Oprah shared her love for Kauai, she did so with 23 million Instagram fans.
The State of Hawaii is the state of health. — Oprah
Hiking more than beaches defines what’s unique about Kauai.
While Kauai boasts gorgeous beaches from Polihale on the west to Hanalei and Kee on the north, it is perhaps the hiking that best defines the differences between Kauai and Maui. The best hiking on Kauai offers unforgettable adventures that are otherwise not available. What you encounter when hiking on the Canyon Trail in Kokee is something that isn’t accessible from a helicopter or any drive-up. And many of Kauai’s trails are of an easier variety, making them accessible to more people.
Canyon Trail to Waipoo Falls Kauai
Perhaps one of the best examples of splendid yet relatively easy access to incredible beauty stands out on this trail. This is the trailhead at which we saw more people last week than ever before. We opted not to hike that trail and instead went in a different direction.
This moderate difficulty trail is a fine example of one that most people in reasonably good shape can conquer. And that will be the feeling you get when you reach the trail’s end, with its stunning view from a rocky plateau in the middle of the canyon’s center. You can continue to hike down to the top of the waterfall. That part gets a bit trickier and more interesting. Following prolific rains last month, the waterfall was beautiful and abundant.
For those seeking more challenging Kauai hiking experiences.
The Awawapuhi Trail in Kokee State Park offers a challenge for experienced hikers in good shape. You start with a sharp 3-mile non-stop descent to a cliff above the Pacific Ocean on the Napali Coast. The views are so incredible that you’ll frequently see and hear helicopters offering it up to these without time or ability to experience it in this way. Obviously, the return is a very steep incline all the way to the top.
From Kapaa, enjoy the iconic Sleeping Giant Trail. On the island’s east side is a moderate hike that’s a perennial favorite of both residents and visitors. Sleeping Giant Trail (Nounou Mountain Trail) starts as a relatively gentle uphill hike that includes but a few steeper areas. It’s very civilized, with picnic tables at the top and great views of the ocean and Kapaa town.
Ultimate Kauai hiking is found here.
The Kalalau Trail starts at Kee Beach on Kauai’s north shore. You can enjoy it even if only for a short distance since it is laden with spectacular views from the start. The trail continues to Hanakapiai Falls and to Kalalau Beach. While no trail hiking permit is needed for the first two miles, parking permits for Kee Beach, with 30-day advance reservations, are required. We’d say this hike is beyond moderate, especially given how muddy and slippery it can frequently be.
Even Poipu Beach features world-class hiking.
For those visitors staying in the busy Poipu Beach area, there’s great hiking too. The Mahaulepu Heritage Trail is largely oceanfront and features beautiful vistas, rocky outcroppings, and a fascinating cave as well. It begins at Shipwreck Beach and is easy enough that most people can hike some to all of it.
Are you choosing Kauai instead of Maui this year?
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I always go to Maui and just spent a wonderful 16 days there November into December. I stay down at Kihei and it is as beautiful as ever. As sad that it is that Lahaina burned there it is just a very small part of the island. I will be back next year.
We used to love Kauai. And then a few years ago, we noticed more and more pushback from the locals. The beaches were “their’s” and some of the roads had roadblocks Manned by locals, who advised us, we better go back. It seems that the old time Aloha Spirit is now for locals only. We’re happy to spend our money elsewhere
We have gone to Kauai for the past 17 winters & love it. I highly recommend a boat trip up the NaPali Coast, but not all boats are the same. The best for a smooth ride is with Liko Kauai which leaves from Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor. And the crew & food is terrific, too!
Oprah, on hearing that neighbor Jeff Bezos had pledged $100M to help the people of Maui after the Lahaina Disaster, quickly stated, she was “going to give a substantial amount” as well, this after giving away Pillows at the Kahului Costco that morning. She quickly left for her Santa Barbara-Montecito area home and hasn’t been seen or heard from since on the Island of Maui!
Last year we went to Kaui and then Maui. We decided to do Oahu, which we haven’t been to in tears, and then on to Maui. The prices for hotel rooms are 3 times what they were when we went last year. This may be the last time for Maui. But, we wanted to give back to the community and will respect their wishes.
My family is going to Kauai. Last year we went to Maui. That’s because we want to get to know more of Hawaii. We first visited the Big Island in 2017. For my 20th anniversary next year we will probably go to Oahu if we can afford it.
Each subsequent trip over the last several years has been significantly more expensive than the last even though our standard of accommodations and such has not elevated.
Be careful what you wish for! The covid lockdown of 2020 should ring loudly in your ears. That lasted only a few months and the free money ran out. If that condition prevailed for a long extended period, life would change dramatically. And I don’t think for the better. No one on the islands are prepared for the kind of existence that would ensue.
The natives have lived there for thousands of years. You think if you stop visiting that the islands would crumble? It’s the exact opposite. If less people visit, things will normalize and they wouldn’t have to keep spending on infrastructure and other tourist centric amenities.
I have a relative named King on the Big Island, I wonder how many “Kings” there are?
I agree with your statement about the “natives being there for thousands of years”, & I think they not only did just fine before the explosion of tourism, but thrived.
Granted, they thrived on a simple, but structured existence.
Take away the only true economy (tourism) in HI & there is not much left, no cars, no AC, no cell phones, no medicine, because these things come with the the influx of tourism dollars.
Maybe that’s the solution?
Probably a balance is the answer?
PatG – I agree with you. I’m on two Facebook groups that vacation in the Ka’anapali Beach area of Maui, and to a person, they are commenting about how welcomed they have been in visits since the fire. These visitors are also volunteering, handing out grocery store gift cards to resort staff, and tipping more generously than usual.
I also wanted to comment about hiking anywhere in Hawaii — we stopped trusting the designations of easy, moderate, difficult, a long time ago. We found them inaccurate and unhelpful when we were younger, and definitely not now in our early 70s!
West Maui is soon to have the worst traffic in its history once debris removal begins very soon. 133 semi truck loads per day shuttling debris to the temporary dump sit. Adding visitor traffic will only magnify this issue. Let Lahaina Heal!
I do miss Kauai. I don’t miss the roads being crowded. Since I left a few years ago, I’ve only returned once and after 30+ years there, I found it strangely unfriendly. With everyone trying to make B+B of any large closet, I found myself staying at the hostel in Kapa’a. Ok, not bad, I can’t complain. Still a beautiful island but sad somehow. Greed kills aloha.
I have a long history with Maui and have no fire related issues about returning. I’ve visited the other islands too, but the value of my dollar in the islands has fallen far enough that other destinations will be looked at. Aloha nui loa.
It is a disservice to state that the Kalalau trail is moderate. At best its is difficult even n the best of times. If rains occur, the streams become impassable and have taken lives. Due diligence is required of this trail.
Maui is still at the risk if fire and floods.
Kaanapali area has had 5 fires and 2 evacuations since the Lahaina fire disaster. Maui has fires all over the island.
Maui needs fire breaks, water in the fire hydrants, and trees cut out of power lines. There are frequent power outages and today it is Hana.
Maui is not ready for visitors
To disgruntled tourists stymied by high hotel prices – don’t blame Hawaii. Most hotel chains are owned and operated by mainland corporations and prices are based on demand.
To disgruntled tourists stymied by high airline prices – don’t blame Hawaii. Five of the six airlines flying between the mainland and Hawaii are all based on the mainland. Again, prices are based on demand.
To those that say, “Enough! I’m going elsewhere”. That’s ok. Maybe we both need to take some time apart.
You fail to mention the consistent messages that tourists aren’t welcome messages as the icing in the cake for the obvious price gouging you mention yourself. Tahitian islands are my go to destinations now after the fires and not only do their islands far exceed Hawaii in beauty, diversity and value, the lack of stink eye against visitors!
Something the hiking hype doesn’t ever mention is that the state trail system is rarely maintained. There is mud, erosion, and many natural hazards associated with them. Those further away from towns have no services that tourists expect to find everywhere, including cellular access and reasonable tow times. Just because you have a 4WD rental doesn’t mean you have a pass to go on every dirt road, either. A tow is at least 3 hours wait at Kokee State Park (residents or tourists) and can be a couple of days if you venture off-road. Google Maps is inaccurate outside of major towns, so use common sense if the roads don’t look safe to drive on. If using trail apps, make sure you download and save pertinent maps to your phone.
City Slickers have no business going to Kauai. It’s the last remaining island that maintains a primitive vibe. We want to keep it that way. I love the pothole filled roads, the lack of cell service, the muddy trails. Why? Because it keeps the yuppies and their entitled ways out. Stick to Maui or Oahu. Kauai is one of the last slices of heaven on this earth that is easily accessible to most. Let’s keep it that way please.
That’s ridiculous
Another we don’t want you here. This is what is what makes people rethink if they want to visit. Be careful what you wish for. Like the Japanese tourist the Mainland tourist could stop coming and donating. Then what ? Woe is me . Please come back. It will be too late for the current 40 to 80 something year olds to visit they will find someone who welcomes them
Mr. FaceBook is buying up so much sacred land and creating a compound for himself and his family. This shouldn’t even be allowed but money talks and sadly he keeps getting his way. Kauai is for the people not for elitist’s that want to gobble it all up for themselves. Unless this is stopped, Kauai will become another Lahaina.
The locals are upset and rightfully so. Tech Bros move in and natives move to the 9th Island (Las Vegas). Truly tragic.
Probably an outsider with a “I’ve got mine, everyone else go home” mentality. Not helpful.
I really wish both the residents and the visitors can learn to respect and appreciate each other, online, as they do face-to-face. It takes minimal effort on both sides to be gracious.
Hi, we’re hoping our visit to our favorite place in Kauai this July will be as we remember like our past 10 times. Like parking near Tunnels Beach or Kee? How about Hanalei,Permits and only set dates to do so? Could you let me know so we can prepare. It has been a couple of years since our last visit. Thanks
for any help, phone numbers etc. Rick & Gloria Tompkins.
The Maui hordes heading to Kauai will ruin it just like they ruined Maui.
Kauai is awesome but is the worst equipped/”infrastructured” of any of the islands.
Maui went full resort / tourist, and will come to their senses soon that is the identity.
Maui has become a concrete jungle. Kaanapali in particular has become timeshare central. Massive hotels/condos rising out of the sands while losing it’s luster. It’s a shame but that’s okay as long as those people stay in Maui. They better now allow that to happen in Kauai because that’ll be the end of it. The locals don’t want it and neither do frequent travelers, we go there because it’s not like the other islands. Let’s preserve that at all costs please.
Kaanapali developers rebuilt Lahaina historic sites 60 years ago. That created a visitor destination . Lahaina produced the biggest tourist revenue on Maui. But it was not reinvested in Poor Lahaina. They built kaanapali hotels and hotel workers housing . The county let them tear down the employee housing and build time share towers.
Now there is only one road past the fire disaster and it gets gridlocked with traffic.
The fire and flood risk has not been reduced .
The West Maui parks locked the restrooms and turned off the water.
Diana, I’ve been reading your posts for a long time now, and although you try to present info in a factual way, it is clear that you do not want visitors on Maui, and these posts are meant to discourage visitors from coming here. Why?
Every Single Person I have talked to or read about who has visited Maui since August has been delighted and has had a wonderful visit, with beauty and welcoming people all around. Not one of them has complained of closed bathrooms, no water, gridlocked traffic, etc. Some have even said their experience was More than pleasant and peaceful than previous visits.
I encourage everyone wanting to come to Maui to put their weight on actual visitor experiences, and not on the few naysayers (or bots) who frequent BOH.
We live in Napili Hawaii just got back to our beautiful 🏠 home! Around us you would never see any signs of a fire!! As you go Towards Lahaina you start to see the path the fire destroyed!! but near Napili and Kapulua: the same peace, and the beautiful ocean is as still the same!! So come enjoy the beautiful spiritual energy of Maui!! Aloha Tammy and Jack
Though I love Hawaii and have been coming for years, I will not be returning. I find my visits not welcome anymore and have decided to travel elsewhere. The cost has become prohibitive as well. There are way more affordable and welcoming options.
My wife and I are die-hard Maui loyalists. We’ve been to the other islands over the years and we loved them all…but…Here’s our (ignorant?) reviews of each: Big Island – not enough sand. Main Island – Everyone should absolutely see it…once. Molokai – Too remote for us. Kauai – sidewalks roll up at 6pm. Maui – Something for everybody; world greatest beaches, astonishing topography (leeward Haleakala is spectacular), unparalleled recreation, and something akin to a nightlife (which we truly enjoyed in Lahaina). Mauians have become friends over the years. We will be there through the hard times.
PSA… Please stay away from Kauai. Kauai is a special place and not for everyone. If you normally go to Maui then there is no reason to go to Kauai, it’s not for you and you’ll hate it. Mainlanders are generally extremely rude, entitled, and downright disrespectful to the spirit of Aloha. They complain about Kauai not having their favorite restaurants and shops, blah blah blah. Please go elsewhere if you are going to have such a negative disposition. If you decide to come, make a concerted effort to embrace the locals and the culture. Drive with caution and be respectful.
Hear! Hear! I could not have said it better, King R.! Excellent words!
Well said King R and RP!
I remember my first visit to Kauai in 1965. Stayed at the Coco Palms and met Grace Buscher the legendary manager of the property. Absolutely stunning! The torch lighting, local musicians and the Coconut Grove all spectacular and Hawaiiana through and through. The road up to the North Shore was barely a lane and a half. Sugar Cane and Pineapple on both sides of the road. Remember the old Hanalei Plantation House Hotel.
Breathtaking views of Hanalei Bay and Mount Mckana. The old days and old ways are sadly gone forever.
We love “Beautiful Kauai” as the old song goes.
Always respect these special majestic islands.
Aloha to all.
Thank you for sharing those beautiful memories, Daryl H.!
That is the Hawaii that we all long for to return. That can Never happen though because there are just too many people. And people are too selfish to be mature enough and realize what they’re doing.
Sadly, the only thing that will weed them out is Capitalism. I say, keep raising those prices! It’s working!
That’s exactly it! Kauai just hits different. It’s not for everybody but IYKYK and that is why so many are hell bent on making sure it stays that way as much as possible. Sadly as more tech bro money rolls in, the culture starts to erode. It’s by far and away my favorite place on earth and it would absolutely crush my soul if it loses that vibe. The beauty of all the islands is that there is something for pretty much everyone depending on what you are into. What concerns me is the Maui crowd coming to Kauai and buying up all of the real estate and destroying it for their own personal greed. Hawaii is sacred land and it’s meant to be enjoyed by everyone, not investors and timeshare salesmen.
You are so correct RP and King R!!!!!
That’s what worries me, the Maui crowd of high end tourists (not the locals who have to deal with them) are all a bunch of deep pocket mainlanders who come to Hawaii with an elitist entitlement mentality and no interest in enjoying the culture and history of Hawaii. When we are in Princeville at our timeshare we run into people very often who think Prince Albert is an English monarch that is the namesake of Princeville, Hawaii!!!
When I diplomatically correct them with some important Hawaiian history, they look at me like I’m making it up! They’re ready for the next Mai Tai not a history lesson. Very sad.
Aloha!
Social media will be if not already the death of our beautiful natural world as we see it. While it does matter Who says they love where and what. It is the numbers that have destroyed the footprint of these beautiful islands. I thank God daily for opportunity to traverse through the hawaiian islands in the 70’s. We studied the islands for years and through college before landing one foot on the islands. There was much Aloha and the tiki lights lit up& the beautiful hula dances & ukelele concerts everywhere. There was no rush to go anywhere and it was all about discovery. We discovered the islands on our own without the help of social media. It was kind referrals from locals, true locals, maybe native. This is all gone now!
I miss those days too, Sandi. So glad you had the opportunity to experience the true aloha that is now forever lost. Social media has turned Hawaii into a cheap amusement park.
It has become perfectly clear that Maui doesn’t want tourists…so we will not go! The place is also severely mismanaged & it seems nobody in the government can make an intelligent decision & stick with it! All of the islands are now getting swamped with the overflow of tourists that would have gone to Maui. Eventually tourists will get tired of being treated badly & also look for less crowded venues outside of Hawaii! Mahalo
Aloha Rob+Jeff. Even with low airfare prices, the prices of staying anywhere has gotten so high with all the added taxes that it no longer is very appealing to go to the islands. It has affected the locals on Kauai with all of these extra visitors, that the attitude is not as warm, I noticed from being there recently, as it was before. There really needs to be a balance or else the experience will continue to become not so pleasant as one is expecting it to be. Dissatisfaction will cause many to go elsewhere which they are already doing. Oversaturation will make the an undesirable destination. Mahalo as always for your reports. Happy New Year.
Hi Debra.
Thanks! We appreciate your more than 150 comments over a period of years.
Aloha.
The turtles on Poipu Beach probably drew some folks. Hope this dies down this summer when we go.
When COVID hit and the islands were closed, the turtles came up on Poipu Beach in droves because there were no people to harass them. Last year when we were there, there were still 70-100 turtles that would come up onto the beach at dusk for the night. I hope that we will see many when we are there next month, but I would think the numbers will be far less because of more tourists.
All the negative from Locals – made me explore – found Australia ! Sure it is a longer flight but I sleep. Plus 100 USD buys 148.35 AUD. Gonna live like a rock star, plus Australia has Fresh Salmon and Excellent wine ! Just like Hawaii, oh…. uh…. , never mind …..
I’m so glad that you found an alternative, Patrick D.!
There are so many wonderful places on the planet to discover and enjoy! The people that constantly return to Hawaii and are obsessed with it are Ruining this beautiful place that they claim to love!
But that is the way of modern civilization, right? Use it up until there’s nothing left and then throw it away. That is what’s happening to Hawaii.
I was just in Australia and New Zealand as well! I want to add that the Māori people have a similar culture as Hawaiians (as told to me by a Māori person himself), and also a similar history of having been taken over, but do Not have similar attitudes otherwise. The Māori are grateful for visitors, and work well with their own government. The government respects them and gives them land and other benefits. You have to have Māori blood to be a guide there, and the guides are full of teachings of the history and culture of their people, but None of the patronizing and chastising. It’s a completely different feel. The Hawaiians have much to learn from the Māori people.
You are correct when you say that Kauai does not have the infrastructure to handle the amount of visitor traffic that Maui does. That also goes for both Oahu and the Big Island. Kauai is a spectacularly beautiful island with world famous natural beauty, such as the Na Pali coast on the rugged North Shore. Kauai is the smallest of the four major tourist islands, and has a correspondingly smaller infrastructure, facilities, and population to maintain and support it. We just returned after Thanksgiving from our Princeville timeshare, and the place was packed everywhere! Even in the normally slow time of early November Kauai was full tourists, many we met told us they came to Kauai instead of Maui. Strain on infrastructure will soon appear.
You’re so right Daryl H.,
Over-tourism is a complete travesty that continues to afflict the Hawaiian islands. I look forward to the hotels and airlines raising the prices so high, that no one will be able to afford to visit.
RP, ….well I am not replying to your post…Feels like a better way to voice your opinion as a local.
Kauai, my favorite. The bastion of paradise and “civility”.
Maui residents, please move to The Big Island plenty of room there.
I’m hoping the Maui tourism decrease continues til January 2025 when we’ll be back – would be great to be there with less people! We often combine a week in Maui with a week in Kauai because they are so different, and the beauty of Kauai is mesmerizing. We have greatly loved the hiking in Kauai in the past, but as we get older and are dealing with various injuries and arthritis, that’s a less compelling reason to go to Kauai. Oahu is just too jam-packed – and we don’t care for Honolulu and Waikiki. We’ve stayed a few times by Ko’Olina which is beautiful but going anywhere from there – so much traffic, so crowded. We’ve been to Big Island once and will go back – loved many things about it. But Maui – well, we’re in love with Maui.
Great…just what I’ve always wanted…More traffic. Thanks for highlighting and advertising Kauai to all of the Maui tourists.
rp ? not appropriate!
I understand how you feel, Sandi. But until you live what we live here in Hawaii, you won’t understand how we feel. Aloha.
It’s all about…Money.
Maui has been pricing themselves out for years now.
I am a local here in Maui.
The hype of the tourists leaving is hilarious. It’s crowded everywhere I go.
Try a Whale trip for example.
Over 100 people on every boat.
I took friends last week.
The negativity is being pushed by articles just like this.
Yes, it will take time to return to pre-fire numbers. But if people would stop saying Lahaina is closed or the locals don’t want you here, they would find out that is not true.
The major hotels are charging too much is a problem.
But all the major hotels are open and in fact, never closed except north of Lahaina to allow locals to stay. But that ended in November.