We Visited Rarotonga. Now We Can’t Stop Comparing Hawaii.

Starbucks and fast food chains haven’t made it here at all. Gated resorts don’t exist. Beaches stay open, uncrowded, and free of parking fees. Only 13,000 people call the island home and just 4% of visitors are from the United States. We just returned from Rarotonga in The Cook Islands, and it answered questions about Hawaii we didn’t even know to ask.

As Hawaii grapples with overtourism and residents speak out about tourism’s impact on daily life, Rarotonga shows what intentional limits can still preserve. What happens when tourism stays small without big-name resorts? What do visitors experience when development does not bulldoze the pace of life? What does it feel like to go somewhere that has not yet decided it is full?

We’ll answer all these questions in our series on The Cook Islands and give you our best tips for visiting. This isn’t Hawaii, and there are undeniable differences, both plus and minus. In 2024, Hawaii welcomed 9.2 million visitors. Rarotonga? Just 180,000. That difference shows in every unrushed moment.

Rarotonga at a glance.

The Cook Islands are made up of fifteen islands spread across a vast stretch of the South Pacific, roughly the size of Western Europe.

Getting there: Via Honolulu (once weekly), Auckland (daily), Sydney and Brisbane (Jetstar and Air New Zealand), or Tahiti (with connections).
Population: 13,000 (by contrast, Kauai has 73,000), and English is an official language.
Ring road: 20 miles to circle the island, no traffic lights, seat belts not required, but you must drive on the left.
Best for: Adventuresome travelers missing old Hawaii.

Rarotonga has about 13,000 residents, which is roughly three-quarters of the Cook Islands’ total population. It’s by far the most populated island, home to the national capital Avarua, the country’s main airport, and almost all government offices, schools, and hospitals.

Nearly everyone who lives elsewhere in the Cook Islands maintains some tie to Rarotonga: for education, business, or family. Many people from the outer islands move here for work or schooling, so the population includes both lifelong residents and those from across the Pa Enua (outer islands).

The Cook Islands as a whole have a population of around 17,000 people (2025 estimate). This number has declined gradually over the years because many Cook Islanders live and work abroad, particularly in New Zealand and Australia, where they hold New Zealand citizenship. In fact, far more Cook Islanders now live overseas than at home.

The only phone carrier is Vodafone. Without it, no Google Maps.

The Hawaiian Airlines flight arrives late at night, after the Vodafone store closes at the airport, so if you haven’t purchased an eSIM before arrival, you’ll need to wait until you can reach a store in town. Your phone must also be unlocked for the eSIM to work.

That left us driving to our Airbnb in the dark without Google Maps. We were told it was about twenty minutes from the airport and before the Moana Sands hotel, but no one mentioned that Moana Sands has three different properties all labeled similarly. We ended up lost until 3:30 a.m., when an older man at a convenience store got on his bike and guided us the rest of the way.

In hindsight, we should have taken a taxi to the accommodation and returned to pick up the rental car in daylight. If you’re staying at a hotel, ask about airport transfers in advance. Many hotels also have a Vodafone hotspot where you can purchase prepaid data vouchers at reception.

Ara Tapu, the ring road, circles Rarotonga in about 32 kilometers, or 20 miles, with a speed limit between 30 and 50 kmh. It takes roughly fifty minutes to drive around the entire island. It’s an easy drive. There are no traffic lights and very few road signs. You drive on the opposite side of the road, but with so little traffic, it quickly feels normal. Seatbelts are rarely used; when we automatically reached for one, our driver smiled and said it wasn’t needed.

Rarotonga: part memory, part reset.

It is impossible not to think about Hawaii when you are in Rarotonga. There are jungle hikes, reef passages, and small churches filled with song on Sunday. Attending a Sunday service on Rarotonga is a rich cultural experience—welcoming, musical, and deeply local.

There is also a total lack of overwhelm. You do not need a reservation to visit the best beach. There is no parking attendant, no entry fee, no rope line. There are none of the new Hawaii fees visitors say cross the line. No $25 Hanauma Bay tickets. No $5 beach parking. No resort fees disguised as destination charges. That absence is what stays with you.

Families own parcels of land passed through generations, and many homes have family graves in the front or back yard. It is a reminder that this is not just a visitor island. It is home.

Food that reflects place, not polish.

Rarotonga’s food scene is small yet sincere. The restaurants and night markets are the island’s living rooms for visitors and residents.

We loved the Muri Night Market most of all. It runs several evenings a week, and the crowd includes locals, families, and visitors all eating side by side. The smells of curries and barbecued fish fill the air, and the portions are distinctly hearty. Stalls vary by night and weather, and when it rains, half may close. Bring cash. We missed the Saturday Punanga Nui Market, but heard repeatedly that it is the one thing not to skip.

Hawaii vs. Rarotonga: A quick look at costs.

Visitors typically report the Cook Islands up to 50% less expensive than Hawaii once you’re on the ground. And we concur. It’s still an island economy, so everything is imported and nothing feels like a complete bargain, but you avoid many of the layered fees, resort charges, and parking costs that have become routine in Hawaii. Food in grocery stores is not plentiful and everything comes by ship from New Zealand.

In short, Hawaii feels polished and premium by comparison; the Cook Islands feel very personal and affordable. You spend less and often get more of what people used to come to the islands for in the first place.

We’ll have more details on precise costs and more contrasts with both Hawaii and French Polynesia upcoming.

As of late 2025, the New Zealand Dollar (NZD) used in The Cook Islands, trades at roughly 1 NZD = 0.59–0.61 USD.
Average (all inclusive) hotel night: Hawaii $400 / Rarotonga $180
Breakfast plate: Hawaii $24 / Rarotonga $10
Rental car: Hawaii $95/day / Rarotonga $45/day
Beach parking: Hawaii $5-10/day / Rarotonga free, always
Resort fees: Hawaii $35-65/night / Rarotonga $0

What to do: slow is not a downside.

We took part in the Progressive Dinner pictured below, a long-standing community experience that moves between three local homes for courses of island-style meals. It was fascinating and deeply personal, with each family offering a prayer on arrival and after. They also took time to share their family story during the meal. Rob will describe more of it in a future piece, but for us, it captured something genuine about the island’s rhythm.

The famous place to snorkel with turtles on Rarotonga is Avaavaroa Passage, located on the south side of the island near the villages of Titikaveka and Vaimaanga. While the experience was unforgettable, we came away with mixed feelings. A well-respected local marine biologist told us later that as many as a thousand people a day may visit the same channels, often without tour regulation. Some operators are careful. Others are not. The difference matters, both for safety and for the turtles themselves. Some issues are the same no matter where you travel.

Cultural events are often spread by word of mouth. We stopped at a local produce stand and were soon invited to the Queen Pa Ariki’s 35th anniversary celebration. It was an indescribably colorful celebration, and we were warmly welcomed as guests and offered front-of-the-house chairs.

Where to stay: choose your lagoon.

Think in zones, not brands. Muri is lively and walkable, with lagoon cruises and cafés close by. Titikaveka and Aroa are quieter, with better snorkeling. Nikao has dramatic sunsets and easy access to the town. There are no international hotel chains, no resort towers. Properties are small, some are family-run, and personal. Choose a beach with safe lagoon access directly in front, since currents and channels vary by stretch. Some hotels and vacation rentals supply reef shoes, snorkels, and kayaks, and you will use them all.

Getting to the Cooks in 2025.

Most Americans will not stumble into this place. You have to want it seriously. The Cook Islands are 3,000 miles south of Hawaii, 710 miles from Tahiti and 1,900 miles from Auckland.

Flights to The Cook Islands arrive mostly from New Zealand and Australia. There is a once-weekly Hawaiian Airlines flight from Honolulu, but no direct service from the U.S. mainland. Rarotonga used to be on Air New Zealand’s long-haul map from Los Angeles. Not anymore. Now it is Jetstar from Sydney and Brisbane several times weekly and up to two widebodies daily from Auckland.

From the U.S. West Coast, three main routes connect: via Honolulu on Hawaiian Airlines is the only connection from the U.S.; via Papeete, Tahiti, on Air Tahiti or Air Rarotonga; and via Tahiti from the US mainland on United, Air Tahiti Nui, Air France, and French Bee. Or via Auckland on Jetstar and Air New Zealand, with by far the widest schedules and easiest onward connections.

However you arrive, you’re stepping back in time, so print everything for immigration. That includes your domestic and international flight confirmations and accommodations. Your outbound flight must be within 31 days of your arrival. Since airport Wi-Fi can be unreliable, be sure to have printouts or screenshots at the ready.

Getting around Rarotonga.

Two public buses loop the island in opposite directions. They are cheerful, inexpensive, and surprisingly effective for getting around relatively fast. Drivers know everyone with many scheduled stops. A compact rental car adds independence, but remember what night driving feels like here. The roads are narrow, unlit, and full of roosters and stray dogs. If you arrive late, don’t make our mistake and choose a taxi to get started. Scooters are everywhere.

Groceries, water, and everyday realities.

Groceries are one of the few frustrations here. Shops are small and often understocked. Fresh fruit if often scarce, and vegetables come and go depending on the week’s shipment. Locals say supply delays are common. We usually shopped at CITC Supermarket in Avarua and Wigmore’s on the southern end of the island. They were both serviceable, but not great.

Tap water is not consistently safe to drink throughout the Cook Islands. Some resorts have filtered or UV-treated systems, but unless it is clearly marked as potable, it is best to boil or buy bottled. Public refill stations exist but are not universal, so always confirm before filling up.

Coffee, on the other hand, is a thriving culture. Despite the lack of branded cafés, there is a surprisingly robust and authentic coffee culture. Small roasters, local blends, and friendly baristas. Our favorite was Sammy’s in Arorangi and her great coffee plus homemade pineapple meringue pie brought us back for more.

The islands share a gentle pace and a sense of courtesy that shapes daily life. There is no tipping culture in the Cook Islands; good service is given naturally and never expected to be rewarded. A warm “meitaki maata,” or thank you, is all that’s needed.

The Cooks beer scene is also memorable. The island has its own small brewery, Rarotonga Brewery, located near Avarua. It’s a friendly, low-key stop where you can sample what’s on tap and chat with the staff about how they brew in a tropical climate. This is a unique find, as the beer is not exported from the island.

For crafts we liked Tivaevae Collectables in Avarua where Jeff made a small handmade tapa cloth art purchase.

Connectivity and phones warning.

Your phone will not work in the Cook Islands for calls or cellular data, period. There are no international agreements. Buy a Vodafone eSIM before you travel. Local Wi-Fi and cellular internet works well enough for email and messages, but its slow and not great for large uploads. Nothing here is automated, and digital confirmations are not always enough. Screenshots, paper backups, and patience are still the rule.

What Rarotonga teaches by doing almost nothing.

That smallness is the point. Everything and everyone is close. Families, faith, and the reef coexist naturally. You learn who fishes where and who sells pancakes at the market. Tourism here has stayed personal because it must. As one local put it, “if we grew too big, we would break what makes us us.” Unlike Maui, where some visitors are quietly saying they’re not coming back, Rarotonga’s small scale means the welcome still feels largely real.

It is not perfect. Supplies are limited, water pressure is low, and sometimes you are reminded just how far you are from anywhere else in the world. It felt far more distant from Hawaii than the miles would indicate. But it works because it cannot grow unchecked. In return for those limits, you get back a piece of calm that Hawaii has nearly lost.

A final note from a Hawaii perspective.

We live on Kauai and love Hawaii deeply. This is our home, where we live, work, and write from. We are no strangers to chickens in the road, reef shoes on the floor, or visitors searching for what the islands used to feel like. Even Kauai, the least developed of the main islands, feels far bigger, busier, and more layered than Rarotonga.

What we found in the Cook Islands was not a replacement for Hawaii; nothing could be. It was something different entirely, a quiet reminder of why small-scale island life matters and what happens when a place chooses to grow slowly on purpose. Rarotonga is not better than Hawaii. It is simply still operating at a human scale that Hawaii outgrew decades ago, for reasons both economic and clearly unavoidable.

We contrast Hawaii with fascinating places around the world because it helps readers understand what makes each destination unique. We came home grateful for both places and clearer about what each one offers now, and what Hawaii can still protect if it chooses to.

Don’t make these mistakes.

If you visit Rarotonga, plan ahead for the small things that matter.

• Do not assume your phone will work or that the internet will save you. Have your Cook Islands’ eSIM active and your air travel and accommodation receipts printed or saved to your phone for immigration.
• Avoid driving at night until you know the island.
• Bring cash for the markets, which are among the most memorable parts of any trip here.
• Boil your drinking water unless you are certain it is purified.
• Do not count on grocery stores to have what you want when you want it. For anything critical, come prepared.

As Hawaii faces big changes to visitor rules, Rarotonga reminds us that protecting paradise means accepting limits. Go slow, listen to the island’s rhythm, and take time for its unplanned moments. That is where Rarotonga still feels like the Hawaii that used to be.

We have more to share soon including the culture of The Cook Islands, interviews with people we met, and our experiences on Aitutaki, where the water turns even clearer and time feels like it stopped entirely.

All photos © Beat of Hawaii.