Nov 13 2009
Hiking to St. Damien’s Kalaupapa Peninsula on Molokai
There are two hikes I’ll never forget. The first happened 30 years ago when I hiked the Grand Canyon. My second memorable hike occurred last week when I walked the 102 year old Pali trail to Kalaupapa.
Kalaupapa is a spiritual place of great beauty and a reminder of tremendous suffering. It’s where Saint Damien lived with and cared for the Hansen’s Disease patients.
The trail is challenging, slippery, muddy, with a 1700 foot elevation drop.
At one point I wanted to turn back. I was determined to keep going. In addition to our supplies we were bringing fresh produce to Father Felix who lives at Kalaupapa.
Each step down was carefully placed to avoid slipping.
The hike to the bottom took 2 hours and 15 minutes; much longer than I had expected. When we heard the sound of the surf and looked up the steep cliff from where we started, it was a feeling of exhilaration knowing we had arrived.
Going back topside after the tour was much easier psychologically without the chance of slipping, but still strenuous.
We felt the hike for a few days after. In spite of the discomfort, it was worth the experience and I recommend to all in good condition.
My next post will talk about the tour of Kalaupapa organized by Damien Tours.
Rob’s hiking notes for those considering this adventure.
Training Routine: It’s important to be in good aerobic condition for this hike. Three weeks before going we ramped up our walks looking for streets with steep inclines and used the stair master at the gym.
Packing Supplies for 2: Water (2 liter bottles) which can be refilled before the trip back topside, 4 sandwiches (we saved one each for the hike up and it helped restore energy), protein bars and nut snacks from Outpost Natural Foods in Kaunakakai plus an extra T-shirt to change into at the bottom for the return hike. Be sure to check the conditions of your shoes. Jeff’s sneaker sole was sucked off by the mud, making the hike up more challenging. We also packed hats and sunscreen.
If I go again I’d bring: Swimsuit for the beach at the end of the trail and hiking poles.
Start your hike early: We began at 7:00 a.m. which put us ahead of the mules and gave us the time needed to hike without feeling rushed. You must arrive by 10:00 a.m. for the tour. We left Kalaupapa at 2pm and arrived topside at 4:30 p.m.
Trail Markers: There are 26 switchbacks and each one is marked. The further down you go the shorter the distance is between numbers. Once you’re at the bottom of the trail you’ll walk 20 minutes along the shore to where the tour begins.
What to Expect: 1700 foot elevation change each way, a steep and muddy trail, lots of steps, and 6 miles round trip. Most of the trail is shaded.
Location of Trailhead: From Kaunakakai, take 460 west, then turn right at Highway 470. The trail entrance is 15 minutes at the top of the highway, past the mule stables, on the right at a metal gate with a sign warning not to enter without a permit.
Visitor Qualifications: You must be at least 16 years of age and meet one of the following: a) invited by a resident, b) have a pre-arranged tour at bottom with Damien Tours, or c) be on a mule trip.
Alternatives to hiking: Take the Mule Ride for $175 or fly-in on Pacific Wings. Another option is to drive past the trail head to the end of the road where there’s an overlook of the Kalaupapa settlement.
(In 1980 our State Legislature again decrees “Hansen’s Disease” rather than “leprosy” to be the official terminology in Hawaii).
Our thanks to Hotel Molokai for providing accommodations.
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I’ll have to experience it vicariously through your posts!
Hi, Jeff and Rob. Love the site and e-mail updates. My partner, Michael, and I made this hike several years ago, and it is, as it is for you, one of the greatest memories of our travelling life. We were so fortunate to have the late Richard Marks as our guide on that day; we have photos of Mr. Marks sitting under a tree, telling us stories of Father (now Saint) Damien – all the while feeding his beloved feral cats little treats. I was so saddened to learn of his passing last December. We’ll cherish our memories of that trip forever.
Incidentally, I, too, hiked the Grand Canyon – twice! We lived in Tucson for more than 20 years before moving to San Diego three years ago. Several years ago, I did a South Rim-to-River-to-South Rim hike with several co-workers, and then returned the following fall to do a North Rim-to-Sout Rim crossing, in one day. I still consider it one of my greatest accomplishments!
Our best to both of you!
John and Michael
That is quite an accomplishment! I did the mule ride in the early 90’s.