One of Hawaii’s most iconic and revered places has been closed to visitors since March 2020 but may soon reopen. A spokesperson from the National Park Service recently said it is “closer than ever” to resuming public access, marking a new chapter in Hawaii’s history.
Tucked away at the bottom of 2000-foot sea cliffs, the Kalaupapa Peninsula isolated patients of Hansen’s disease (leprosy) from their loved ones and the world. As preparations for reopening might unfold, Kalaupapa could again offer an opportunity to explore its powerful history, incredible scenery, and stories of amazing resilience. With the last “patients’” wishes and preservation efforts in mind, this could become another significant moment in Hawaii.
Kalaupapa has a complex history that embodies suffering, resilience, beauty, and reverence. Only eight former patients remain, and their stories echo through the landscape.
History and suffering at Kalaupapa.
Kalaupapa became a place of forced isolation for those diagnosed with Hansen’s disease starting in 1865. Thousands of patients endured separation, stigma, and suffering there, often spending the remainder of their lives separated from all loved ones.
Yet even with the hardship, individuals like Father Damien, canonized in 2009, later emerged as beacons of hope and compassion. His dedication, along with the efforts of other caregivers, helped transform Kalaupapa into more than just a settlement—creating a legacy of resilience, humanity, and healing that continues to inspire visitors today.
A look back: Reflections from Kalaupapa visitors.
Visitors to Kalaupapa shared with Beat of Hawaii their experiences that showcase the profound impact of this unique place:
- Carmel M recalled hiking down in 1991, describing it as “a wet, humid and sloppy hike” but ultimately “absolutely breathtaking” upon reaching the bottom.
- Debbie W mentioned how “it was such a unique and touching experience” guided by Richard Marks in the early 2000s.
- Nancy M shared a deeply personal connection: “My husband’s grandfather was born in Kalawao in 1894, and his great-grandfather was buried there years later.”
- Barb R recounted her mule ride in 1985, with guide Ike saying, “He had lived there since he was 16 because of leprosy,” and how being in Father Damien’s church was “very Spiritual.”
- Melony P spoke about her visits and described Kalaupapa as “one of the most sacred places I have ever visited,” also performing at St. Philomena’s Church.
- Ron W reflected on his strenuous hike over 18 years ago, sharing how it was “life changing,” despite being sore for days afterward.
- Patrick G appreciated learning about Kalaupapa’s history, saying his “family has a very long history on the islands and especially on Maui.”
- Roy shared that his friend Fermin’s work on Kalaupapa was “life changing” and inspired him to create a series of artworks.
- Sandra F mentioned feeling “overcome with a peaceful feeling that I will never forget” after her mule ride.
- Jane expressed how riding the mules to Kalaupapa was “one of the most moving and incredible experiences of our lifetime,” something she would do again.
The Struggle for Reopening: Although the park has remained closed for years for various reasons, some obvious and others not entirely explainable, efforts are underway to resume tours once a vendor is approved.
Kalaupapa National Historical Park is managed jointly by the National Park Service (NPS) and the Hawaii State Department of Health (DOH). While the NPS is responsible for the overall administration of the park, the Hawaii DOH still plays a significant role, especially in overseeing the support of the few remaining residents.
This dual management approach ensures that Kalaupapa’s historical significance and other aspects are preserved and respected. The NPS aims to balance access with respect. Commenters wanted Kalaupapa to reopen thoughtfully without turning it into another Hawaii tourist hotspot.
With the trail to Kalaupapa closed, access by air has been significantly reduced due to limited service. NPS is acutely aware of the situation, and reopening must be balanced to not further strain the already limited transportation resources available for Molokai residents.
NPS said, “How can we allow visitors without directly competing with locals for limited airline seats? We want to be thoughtful and sensitive in our efforts, not take away from the community.” No specific timeline has been offered thus far for when visitors might expect tours to begin again.
Preserving the Legacy: Kalaupapa’s history is preserved in the memories and stories shared by those who have lived and visited there and in its unique austere landscape. As it prepares a potential reopening, there is hope that future generations will honor this place as a site of learning, healing, and respect.
For now, the Kalaupapa Lookout on the topside of Molokai offers a spectacular and humbling view of the peninsula below. Hopefully, the closed trail from the lookout down to the settlement will be part of the reopening plans.
Feel free to comment or share your Kalaupapa experience below. We’ll keep you updated on future reopening details.
How long until the criminal homeless-like they’re doing on Kauai-and entitled tourists just screw the place up again?
As a kama’aina who was fortunate to experience a brief visit to kalaupapa, including kalawao, in the early 2000s, idk if a national park is best option for opening the place up to the public. Unless access is strictly controlled and limited, the beautiful and spiritual essence of kalaupapa may be ruined. Like others have mentioned, also respect for the remaining and former residents/patients, including family and descendants, and their experiences and opinions should be of paramount importance. This tragic chapter of hawaiian history is clearly demanding kid-glove handling. Although perhaps the national park status is a done deal, I would vote to keep a lower-level park status, like reserve or preserve, if it would limit access and traffic. I would not open kalaupapa to the public before requiring all visitors to be educated similar to what has been established at Hanauma Bay. And please don’t allow it to become monetized, where only the affluent are allowed access.
Hawaii and the people that reside there are unique and fascinating. Remember to respect and honor them both when visiting. Keeping it a paradise depends so much on those who visit. My opinion is it is the most special place on earth.