Nobody loves Hanalei Bay Kauai more than the three editors at Beat of Hawaii. It’s our local home beach in summer and a place we return to over and over again. Recently, the national press has given accolades to Hanalei as well.
Tripadvisor Travelers’ Choice places the beach at #4 on their list of the 25 Best Beaches in the USA. The only other Hawaii beach to score higher is Kaanapali on Maui which came in first. Travel and Leisure magazine also wrote about Hanalei this week, calling it the “crown jewel” of Kauai.
But things are changing from our perspective. We still consider Hanalei Bay as quintessential Kauai, if not Hawaii, and it has been easy to understand why that is. The laid-back Hanalei surf town has been an example of a local community that endures as it holds close to its roots.
Loved-To-Death Hanalei did not look like this during spring break.
Your editors spent time over spring break and took day trips to enjoy the nice spring weather. What we found was nothing short of astonishing, as in our lead photo above. We had never seen so many people at Hanalei Bay ever. While we weren’t “Pollyanna” expecting the beach to be empty, it felt more like we were at Waikiki Beach than Hanalei Bay. Our memories go back to a different time, like the photo above that we took before COVID.
The first indication of trouble was when arriving at Black Pot Beach Park, where we could not find parking in either the front parking lot or the large new overflow lot. We ended up parking along Weke Road, which is a good option if you don’t block a driveway.
If you’re planning to visit Hanalei in the summer, here are tips to avoid these crowds.
- Drive to the end of Weke Road near the river and park close to the Hanalei Pier at Black Pot Beach Park with its iconic view. That’s still the best choice for parking. And as we mentioned, off-street parking is another option if the lot is full.
- Walk between the pier and the first lifeguard station to the middle beach, where the crowds are far fewer. We see most people congregating closer to the pier (including surfing classes) or the lifeguard station, leaving the stretch of sand between both less congested. That’s always worked for us. It is also true in the area between the lifeguard and Pine Trees.
- There is a new grassy area at Black Pot which is a good place to picnic and for the kids to have fun when they get tired of the beach. It’s usually not crowded, and there are shade trees.
- Refer to the regatta schedule at Hanalei Bay when outrigger canoe teams are racing. It’s definitely more crowded then and not easy or safe-feeling to swim around. The 2023 dates are June 10, 17, 24, and July 8 and 22.
- Plan your visit early in the day or late afternoon.
More About Hanalei Bay Kauai.
Still, those indescribably beautiful views are seen in all directions, from the bay to Bali Hai (Makana) in the distance and the mountains set behind. At nearly two miles in length, Hanalei Bay is the largest on Kauai and is up to 125 feet wide at some points. The bay begins at the Hanalei River’s mouth, which adjoins Princeville on the east side. It goes to Waipa Stream on the other end.
It isn’t just these latecomers who have noted the beauty of Hanalei Bay. Dr. Beach has included it as one of the best beaches in America countless times.
We will say that the bay features shimmering blue water and on a good day visibility can be incredible.
The new bathrooms are working, but they are a huge disappointment. As a result, temporarily, or not it seems indefinite, they will be supplemented by many portable units.
Hanalei is popular not only on the beach, but in the water with surfers, kayakers along the bay and the river, and stand-up paddlers as well.
Well, Hanalei was in over 10 movies in the 1950’s (including South Pacific), so the “secret” was out back then! First put my toes in the sand there in 1983, after driving past Hollywood filming “Apocalypse Now” in the faux rice patty near Princeville. So the the beauty of Hanalei was in movies many times long ago, not the least of which in “The Descendants.”
Not so sure how I feel about “locals only” policies. If any of the maintenance or development funds comes from taxpayers in any way then “locals only” is a slippery slope for lawsuits.
Let us share our beauty with all. Control flow if necessary, even to the point of “locals only” 2 days a week (Tue & Thu) from 7-10am, but access to all otherwise.
Just came back from Hawaii, including a week on Kauai. I know my comment is well after-the-fact for this story, but BoH served me this story immediately below today’s story on Kauai, so I had a quick read after visiting Hanalei Bay for the first time less than two weeks ago. Maybe I’m the only one who sees the irony in a Kauai visitors who has returned 15 times, talking about a place being loved to death. Maybe take a look in the mirror, and expand your own tourism horizons?
Randy,
I suspect your subtle insult about the irony of my visiting a beautiful place like Kauai 15 time, as being part of the problem, suggests I either have been a typical tourist by “loving to death” this beautiful island & should destroy somewhere else.
Maybe you saw the typical tourists who walk on reefs, liter this island & honk horn?
Not me, I have more appreciation for a paradise like Kauai.
Every trip to Kauai, I witnessed typical tourists, who have no clue about what this Island was 20+ years ago.
Well said, loved to death is the term I use, my use to be favorite beach was Ke’e beach (for the snorkleing), before the paved parking lot, lifegaurd stand & crowds that destroyed the reef. Hanalei Bay was my 2nd favorite beach (views, swimming, bodysurfing, teenage kids surf lessons). Of our 15 trips to Kauai since 2000, we stayed in Princeville 12 of the 15 times & would spend multiple days in a row sitting on Hanalei Bay, fond memories.
Thanks
I am so glad I spent time in Hawaii from 1970 on. In the 70s & 80s I was able to see all the islands before they were trampled. I was fortunate to have been a part of Hawaii, that even most Hawaiians are not afforded. I worked for the City and County in community action, and emersed myself in the culture and it’s people. In the 70s I had the extreme opportunity to participate in Hawaiiana that is so rare. I was the only import in the well known “House of I” with Milton Imai Kalani, Tunee as he was known. My memories of Hawaii are so precious and rare. I thank all the local people in Hawaii for every memory we shared together. I left Hawaii after 45 years and have thought about returning, but when I see what Hawaii has become? I am so sad.
During Covid closures many well off , rich and shameless came to play and decided to stay put. Word got out and soon property prices doubled and now the north shore is choke full of full time tourists. There was already a number of entitled “retired” population that used the resources everyday before this new wave. I drive into Hanalei occasionally now for work but I avoid the circus as a beach destination. It’s f’d out for sure.
Loved to Death is very on point!
A 50 year resident of Kona now residing on the mainland I cry when I occasionally return to the Islands.
I Cry for Kona !!
Hanalei town has become Disneyfied, too. I really miss its old funkiness. As a visitor, I know I’m part of the problem, but I never wanted Hanalei or the north shore to be anything more than its moldy, funky, sandy self. The white-shoed, ironed-golf-pants south shore day visitors must be demanding something else. Makes me sad that we can’t have funky things. At least we still have Uncle Robert’s in Kalapana!
Aloha, guys. I don’t think there are many prettier places in the world that I’ve seen than at the end of Hanalei pier. I attribute this huge increase to the fact that a lot of these people would be at Ke’e beach. Ke’e was horribly overrun until the big,big flood of 2018.(?) Ke’e was completely flooded out after the 54″ rain that fell in a 24 hour period. The State took the opportunity to revamp the overcrowded conditions and make it permit only to non Hawaii residents. For you visitors I can tell you what the Hawaiian community and state have done out there is well worth getting your permit 30 days ahead of time. It is a special place on Kaua’i. In the pre flood days, folks would go out there for sunsets. Only place I’ve ever seen a green.
Yes, April 2018. The crowding of Hanalei Bay beach started immediately thereafter, interrupted by the HI/Kauai COVID reaction policies imposed from March 2020 to April 2021. And, of course, the slope above the bridge crapping out in 2021. And when the road re-opened, some pressure was taken off Hanalei when tourists started descending on Lumahai Local. No lifeguards, no bathrooms, insane dirt-mud parking, plenty of rip tides, and of course the kids love to play in the water where the river pours into the ocean.
Well This is my favorite Bay. Or was. I believe “love it to death” is understatement. If tourists could abide rules, it will survive, if not, it will become another “not-so loved to death resort area”
Maybe it’s not all tourists. Kauai population in 1969 : 30,000. 2021: 73,000. All the residents who love Hanalei contribute to the use.
No, not like this. I’m a part-timer, and can say I’ve never seen anything like the photo above at Hanalei. Not in the last 20 years, at least..
….and this is the problem. The beauty of Hawaii is being destroyed by the sheer numbers of tourists. The only answer is fewer tourists, but that will impact the economy of Hawaii unless those smaller number of tourists spend more. Hence the increase in prices, taxes, etc. The trick will be finding the balance between increases prices and numbers of tourists. If you increase the prices too much, then you get too few tourists, if you don’t increase it enough, you get what you see in this article. On top of that, you have the tourism industry in Hawaii who want more, more, more tourists because that’s how we measure success in a unfettered capitalistic economy like we have in the US. Add in the economy, and it’s a mess.
If as reported in BOH, if the booking numbers for summer hold, then the tipping point might have been reached.
Joerg H.,
I agree with most of your comments, overcrowding is a big problem, however, based upon my observations, the increase in tourists that don’t respect the local people, culture or land is another big part of it.
It helps me understand why the locals want us tourists to stay away.
Problem is, all of Hawaii is a tourism based economy, anyone who thinks Hawaii can survive without a lot of tourism, is fooling themselves.
This current “experiment” against capitalism isn’t going so well, from my perspective (a CA specialty Mechanical Contractor who is as busy as we have ever been).
Jim D.
I agree, “entitled” tourists are a Huge problem, and not just in Hawaii. As a matter of fact, entitled people seem to be becoming the norm in American society in general. As a matter of fact, one of the things to consider is that as you make Hawaii a more “luxury” or upscale vacation, that your going to get a greater percentage of “entitled” visitors. So, in my mind, as you address the shear number of tourists problem you’re going to increase the “entitlement” problem. The trick will be to find some kind of happy medium where the overwhelming numbers get addressed without turning Hawaii into a playground for the rich and entitled.
I think All the beaches are becoming over-exposed; just spent a day last week at Kauna’oa (Mauna Kea) beach on the Big Island and it was busier than I’m used to seeing, and I’m not counting hotel guests. I always liked the fact this beach is usually less crowded than the bigger and more well known Hapuna. Not anymore! By mid-morning we were almost completely hemmed in with folks setting up umbrellas and blankets practically on top of us.
Enough said about Hanalei…..leave it to the locals and those in the know…..Pulled taro there when I was a kid…..
I was lucky enough to be there in the ’60s and ’70s.